Amp up your Workbench
Every shop has some form of a workbench, but have you maximized yours to its full potential? The addition of a few well-chosen accessories really helped boost my bench's usefulness.
I began with a workbench placed behind my cabinet saw (shown below) to act as an outfeed table; its 30×60" size works well for that purpose. As a worksurface, though, that large expanse makes clamping and holding projects and odd stock a bit awkward.
Add a vise
Next, I added a simple vise to the workbench below. Although the vise could clamp material between its jaws, I needed a way to hold pieces along the length of the bench, too, and bench dogs—removable posts that drop into holes aligned with the vise below—are the perfect solution. The vise had a pop-up dog, but my bench didn't have dog holes to work with it, so I set out to change that using the two following methods.
Bore the dog holes
Note: To determine the spacing of your dog holes, measure the maximum distance between your vice jaws and subtract 1⁄2 ".
Routing:
This method, using a plunge router and a 3⁄4 " upcut spiral bit, keeps the dog hole perfectly vertical. To keep the router from moving sideways during the plunge, create a template from a piece of 1⁄4 " hardboard cut out to match the router base shown below. Align and clamp that template to the benchtop, then rout.
Drilling:
The second method uses a drill and an auger-style bit in combination with a simple jig show below. Start by boring a 3⁄4 " hole in 2×4 scrap with the drill press. (I used a Forstner bit and a backer board to prevent blow-out.) Now, simply clamp that 2×4 jig to the benchtop, centering the hole over the dog-hole location, and drill through the benchtop with the auger bit. If, after drilling several holes, the jig gets reamed oversize, simply bore a new hole in it.
Tip! Whether drilling or routing, clamp a backer board on the underside of the benchtop to reduce tear-out.
After machining the holes with either method, use a 45° chamfer bit with a bearing to ease the top edge of each hole. This removes any tear-out and prevents future tear-out caused by inserting and removing dogs. Finally, buy a batch of bench dogs and fill those holes.
Consider adding T-track
For added versatility, I also routed a groove to accept T-track down the center of my benchtop. Now I can use any of a number of compatible hold-downs, toos as shown below.
Add a layer of protection
Want to build your own workbench? From simple to elaborate, we've got plans for you. woodmagazine.com/benchplans
I know my workbench will get its share of scars under normal use, but I still cover the top with builder's paper when not using bench dogs. It protects against scratches, gouges, and glue drips. You can find it in rolls at home centers.
To round out this list of accessories, I like to keep a set of bar and F-clamps nearby for glue-ups, and a couple of short lengths of 4×4 stock to use as risers, elevating the workpiece to make room for clamp heads under it. A set of bench pucks (see first photo) comes in handy when you just need a little lift, such as when applying a finish to edges.