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Tablesaw Blade Locker

Build this compact storage unit and say good-bye to shuffling through blades stacked on a shelf or in a drawer. The pullout panels keep everything at your fingertips while protecting the carbide teeth.

Project overview

Project Highlights
• Overall dimensions: 1112 " wide x 12" deep x1334 " high.
• Stores a stack dado set and six 10" saw blades.
• Expand it to store additional blades by making a wider case and adding more pull-out boards.
• Hang your dado set on three pullout boards so you can get right to the blades and chippers you need.
• A pair of interlocking cleats makes wall-mounting a snap.
• If space allows, use the top of the case as a shelf and hang tablesaw accessories, such as throat plates and pushsticks, from the sides.
• For the lumber and other items needed to build this project, see cutting diagram.

As a convenience to allow you to view this free woodworking plan before downloading it, we now offer a page-by-page review. If you like the plan, you'll find a Free Downloadable Plan link on the bottom of the story refered to as Related Content. The downloadable plan will have larger, easier to view illustrations than the online preview.

Start with the parts

• Cut the rails (A) and panels (B) to size see Materials List, below right.
• From 18 " tempered hardboard, cut the stops (C) to size.
• Plane stock to the same thickness as the 12 " plywood, and cut the cleats (D) to size.
• Cut the top and bottom (E) and sides (F) to size. Then cut the case cleat (G) and wall cleat (H) to width and 14 " longer than listed. Rip 45° bevels on the mating edges of the case cleat and wall, see drawing.

Bill of material

Two flat boards

Pullouts to hang the boards

• Adjust a dado blade to cut a groove to match the thickness of the 12 " plywood panels (B). Then cut a centered 316 "-deep groove into each rail (A).
• Chuck a 1" Forstner bit into your drill press and drill a finger-pull hole into each panel (B). Mark 1" radii on the panel bottom corners. Saw and sand them to shape. Drill two 18 " holes into each panel for #10 roundhead screws.
• Glue and clamp a rail (A) to the top edge of each panel (B), with both parts flush at the front.
• Glue and clamp a stop (C) to the upper rear corner of each panel (B) on both sides.

Two flat board with round edges

Sliding hangers come next

• To form the ends of the 9"-long notches in the rails (A) of the hangers (A/D), fit your tablesaw miter gauge with an extension and stopblock. Then cut 18 " saw kerfs 18 " deep into both edges of each rail 3" from the front end [Drawing, below].
• Complete the 9"-long rail notches, position your bandsaw fence 1" from the blade. With the hanger (A/D) rails (A) up, cut to the saw kerf [Photo A]. Next measure the distance from the cleat (D) to the edge of the rail, and cut a spacer to this width and the length of the bandsaw fence. Clamp the spacer to the fence 12 " above the bandsaw table. Now rotate the hangers, and with the rails down, cut the opposite notches [Photo B].



• Drill three countersunk holes through each hanger (A/D) [Drawing, below].
• Retrieve the sides (F) and the remaining cleats (D). Glue and clamp the cleats to the inside faces of the sides [Drawing, below].


Cutting diagram

Enclosing the blades

• Finish-sand all the parts and assemblies. Then apply a clear finish. (We applied two coats of satin polyurethane, sanding between coats with 220-grit sandpaper.)
• Retrieve the top (E). Center one hanger (A/D) on the bottom face, flush at the front, and clamp it in place. Using the hanger shank holes as guides, drill pilot holes into the top, and drive the screws. Then, inserting 1732 "-wide spacers between the cleats (D), add the remaining hangers [Photo C].


• Clamp the top assembly (A/D/E), bottom (E), and side assemblies (D/F) together, flush all around. Then drill countersunk screw holes through the top and bottom (E) and into the sides (F) [Drawing below]. Drive the screws.

Lid and side and corner completed

Time for assembly

• Drive roundhead screws into the 18 " pilot holes in the panels (B) of the pullout boards (A/B/C) [Drawing, below right]. Leave 316 " between the head of the screw and the panel [Screw Detail]. File the protruding screw points flush on the opposite side of the panel.
• Slide the pullout boards (A/B/C) into the case from the rear. Measure the inside dimension of the case. Cut the case cleat (G) to this length. Then cut the wall cleat (H) 14 " less than this length. Position the case cleat between the sides (F), flush with the back edges and snug against the bottoms of the side cleats (D). Clamp the case cleat in place. Drill countersunk screw holes through the sides and into the case cleat. Drive the screws [Photo D].


Slates going into box


Mount it to the wall

• Check for a wall stud in the desired location of the blade locker. If there is a stud, mark the location on the wall cleat (H), and drill two countersunk screw holes in a vertical arrangement. Hold the cleat level against the wall. Using the screw holes as guides, mark the screw locations on the wall. Drill pilot holes into the stud, and screw the cleat to the wall.

If there is no stud, drill the cleat holes in a horizontal arrangement, and use hollow wall fasteners to mount the cleat. Hang the blade locker by interlocking the case cleat (G) and wall cleat bevels. Slide out the pull-out boards, and hang your blades on the roundhead screws.

Note: To allow the case cleat (G) to clear the wall cleat (H) when mounting the blade locker under an overhead obstruction, such as a wall cabinet, draw a level line 11" below the obstruction, and align the bottom of the wall cleat with this line.© Copyright Meredith Corporation 2002, 2010

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