Custom Keyboard Stand
This build is very simple yet there are just a few small details that really impact the design. The tapered legs and curved sides really make this look like a high end piece of furniture, both of which were super simple to do. The table is joined using dowels which is a very easy joinery method, but if you prefer pocket holes, the plans and cut list would be exactly the same, just substitute dowels for pocket holes and screws.
I built this table from rough walnut, but the plans are written up so you can use dimensional lumber as well.
The final dimensions end up being 56" wide x 31" high x 20" deep. The top of the keys will be 29" from the ground.
I based this stand off the dimensions of my particular keyboard, double check the dimensions of your keyboard before building.
Materials or Supplies
Materials or Supplies
Cut all materials to size
(If you have access to thicker lumber, use that for the legs instead of the 1x material listed below. Mill 8/4 lumber to be 13⁄4 " thick and cut them to length.)
- Front Lid @ 561⁄4 ” x 9”
- 4 Back Legs @ 30” x 11⁄2 ”
- 2 Front Legs @ 271⁄2 ” x 11⁄2 ”
(The legs will be glued together to create 11⁄2 ” square legs.)
- 2 Side Panels @ 161⁄2 ” x 71⁄2 ”
- 1 Front Apron @ 521⁄2 ” x 5”
- Back Lid @ 561⁄4 ” x 4”
- 2 Front Legs @271⁄2 ” 11⁄2 ”
Glue up legs (if necessary)
If you are using the 1x material for the legs glue them up before cutting them to their final size.
Cut Plywood to size
4x8 Sheet of 3/4” Plywood
- Bottom Panel @ 541⁄2 ” x 181⁄8 ”
- Back Panel @ 521⁄2 ” x 71⁄4 ”
Cut grooves to house the plywood bottom
Cut a groove in the 2 side pieces and front apron to match the width of the 3⁄4 ” plywood.
You can make this groove on a table saw or router table. The groove should start 1⁄4 ” up from the bottom of the pieces and it should be about 3⁄8 ” deep (half the thickness of the piece).
Cut the curve into the side pieces
Cut the curved sides with a band saw or jigsaw then clean up the cut with a sander.
The front of the curve should begin 5” from the bottom (same width as front apron) The top of the curve should start 51⁄2 ” from the front.
Cut taper in legs (If desired)
If adding a taper to the legs, cut them now.
The taper starts 1” down from the bottom of the apron and ends up at half the thickness of the leg.
This can be done using a taper jig on the table saw or bandsaw.
Prepare the plywood panels
In order for the bottom plywood to fit in in the base you need to notch out the corners to accomodate the legs.
The front notches should be 1” in from the front and side.
The back notches should be 1” from the side and 5⁄8 ” from the back
You also don't want to speakers that are on the bottom of your keyboard so be muffled by the plywood. Locate where your speakers are and cut holes in the plywood using a hole saw or jigsaw.
While your add it drill a large hole in the back plywood piece so you can string the power corn through the back.
Assemble the sides using joinery of choice. I used dowels but feel free to use pocket holes are whatever you are comfortable with.
Just be sure to leave an 1⁄8 ” reveal from the legs to the apron. (You can adjust the amount of reveal you want on the table, but then you will need to adjust the plywood size.)
Attach the two sides
First attach the front apron onto one of the side pieces using dowels making sure to keep that 1⁄8 " reveal. Then glue the plywood into the grooves of the side and front.
Once the bottom is in place, you can glue on the second side piece.
(You need to place the plywood in before attaching the second side because the back leg is jutting out, so you can slide the plywood in after the fact.)
Attach plywood back
Attach the back using pocket holes or joinery method of choice.
(Make sure to drill a hole before assembling for the power cables to run through.)
Use figure 8 table top fasteners to attach the back lid to the side pieces and back panel
(Or you can use pocket holes to attach the top to the back.)
Finally, use hinges to attach the front lid to the back lid. Add soft close stay if you like, and you are done!