This simple router table microadjuster takes only minutes to make, and pays huge dividends in accuracy. It consists of a rabbeted backstop that hooks over the rear of the router table and locks into the same T-track that the fence rides in. The backstop houses 6-32 pronged T-nuts in through holes to hold 6-32 threaded rod. I added a jam nut and couplers to act as a handle and a reference to indicate the adjustment amount. Each full turn of the coupler nudges the fence 1/32".
This scrapwood jig helps you sharpen plane irons accurately and quickly. To build it, bevel the ends of two scrap boards (one about 3" thick, 4" wide and 8" long, and the other about 3/4x3x8" as shown, to match the bevel angle of the plane iron. Leave the smaller board about 1/8" forward of the other to create a fence to square the iron against; then glue the two boards together.
Position the plane iron against the fence with the bevel slightly above the top face of the jig, and secure it with a screw and washer. Now, guide your sharpening stone against the top of the jig to sharpen the iron in no time.
My wife and I make crafts to sell at fairs and festivals. Recently, we decided to branch out with this three-legged table design, but even with two sets of hands, we found it difficult to hold the legs upright while placing the tabletop and shelves. My wife hit on the idea of using bar clamps at the base of the legs as temporary supports. It was like having extra hands to help us.
I didn't want to ruin my brand new tablesaw fence by attaching permanent fixtures for featherboards. So I came up with this removable jig.
Sized to fit between the fence inside faces, the magnetic mounting block can be placed anywhere along the fence. Two spacers, each the thickness of the fence face, attach between the mounting block and the featherboard using 1/4"-20 knobs that thread into nuts in the T-track. Between uses, the jig stores on the edge of my cast iron tablesaw wing.