When cutting box joints using my tablesaw sled, I like to keep eyes on the blade throughout the cut.
The steel throat plate on my tablesaw is thin—so thin that wooden zero-clearance inserts sag and affect the accuracy of my cuts.
When ripping a glue-line joint on the tablesaw, the smallest deviation of the blade from 90° can result in unflat panels.
When making replacement zero-clearance inserts for my tablesaw, I found that, when equipped with a standard 10" blade, my tablesaw couldn’t lower the blade far enough to make the initial cut in the inserts.
A long miter-gauge extension can be tippy, particularly when starting a cut on wide stock, when the head of the miter gauge isn’t supported by the tablesaw’s table.
Every time you switch from the miter gauge to the rip fence, you have to walk across the shop to put one or the other down.