Make your work at the tablesaw easier, safer, and more accurate with these aftermarket upgrades.
Photo of tablesaw jig

Tapering Jigs

These jigs, when used on a tablesaw, help cut precise low-angle tapers (up to about 15°) and come in two styles: fixed-sled versions guided by your saw's miter slot, and hinged models that register against your saw's rip fence. Fixed-sled jigs come with an oversize base that you trim to fit your tablesaw, providing a zero-clearance edge that prevents workpiece tear-out and shows precisely where the blade will cut the taper. Hold-downs secure the workpiece at the desired angle and against a movable fence, making it easy to cut multiples at the same angle.

With a hinged jig, the left arm pivots to the desired angle and the workpiece rests against it. With most hinged jigs, the workpiece rests on the tablesaw top and against the jig, but some include a base for zero-clearance support.

Photo of sacrificial base
The sacrificial MDF base under the Woodpeckers pivoting arm gets recut with each different angle, removing some zero-clearance support in the process. You can buy replacement bases or make your own from 1⁄2" MDF.

Rockler Taper/Straightline Jig, no. 21597

Photo of Rockler 21597

Size: 7-34×31-58"
Overall grade: A

This accurate jig is so intuitive, we found ourselves cutting perfect tapers before even reading the instructions. Simply lay out the taper on your workpiece, align the mark with the edge of the jig and against the end stop, clamp the workpiece with the rubber-tipped hold-downs, and cut the taper. It's just that easy. Although Rockler provides indexing marks in 1° increments, we found it easier to align the workpiece taper to the jig edge. To taper a wide workpiece, simply remove the miter bar and run the jig against the rip fence.

Woodpeckers 32" Precision Taper Jig, no. PTJ-32

Photo of Woodpeckers PTJ32

Size: 43⁄4×321⁄2" (closed)

Overall grade: A

There's no questioning the high quality of this jig, made of anodized aluminum and stainless steel. Set the taper angle with two spot-on laser-etched indexing scales: 0–17-1⁄2° in 1⁄2° increments, or 0–7-1⁄2° in 1⁄4° increments. The two hold-downs use speed nuts for making quick adjustments, and then double as handles when tightened. For workpieces less than 28" long, you'll have to remove the forward indexing scale and reposition the hold-down to where it can secure the leading end of the workpiece. 


Rockler Small-Parts Taper Jig, no. 57550

Photo of Rockler 57550

Size: 7-1⁄4×11-1⁄2" 

Overall grade: A– 

Functioning similarly to the Rockler 21597, this model works well for tapering small parts, such as box feet or handles. Three rows of miter-bar mounting holes allow it to fit a greater range of saws. The hold-downs work okay on stock up to 1-3⁄8" thick, but require longer T-bolts to holdthicker stock.


MicroJig MicroDial Tapering Jig, no. TJ-5000

Photo of Microjig TJ5000

Size: 81⁄2×25" (closed)

Overall grade: B–

If you know the taper angle, you can precisely set this jig to that angle (up to 10°) in 1⁄8° increments. Or you can set the angle based on the amount of taper per foot (rise/run), which requires some math. We found it easiest, though, to simply align the jig to a taper laid out on a template or existing project part, then lock the fence in place. Because this jig has no hold-downs, one handle, and a short end stop, use an extra pushblock to safely hold the workpiece in place through the cut. When about half the jig extends unsupported off the saw's top, it can flex a little, causing the workpiece to lose contact with the end stop. We found straightline-cutting with this jig clumsy. 


WoodRiver Taper Jig, no. 03R22

Photo of WoodRiver 03R22

Size: 31⁄4×241⁄4" (closed)

Overall grade: C–

This basic jig works well on wide workpieces, but the lack of hold-downs makes cutting tapers on narrow workpieces (coffee-table legs, for example), not impossible, but dicey. This model's scales set 0–15° angles and 0–3" per foot rise/run, but they sit so close to the hinge that a slight inaccuracy magnifies into greater error at the tail end. In our tests, tightening the brace wing nuts caused the jig arms to creep out of adjustment; replacing the supplied lock washers with flat washers eliminated the problem. 


Tenoning Jigs

Cutting tenon cheeks horizontally with a stacked dado set can't match the smooth cuts made when using a tenoning jig to hold the workpiece vertically (above). A tenoning jig registers in a miter slot, so it can't wiggle side-to-side after you tweak the built-in bar adjusters to snug the fit. The five cast-iron jigs we tested look and act similarly and have the heft to help glide through cuts without vibration.

Phot of accessible miter bars on jig
We like the easily accessible miter bars on the Rockler and WoodRiver jigs to reposition them for wider workpieces or farther-spaced miter slots. Other models require removing the sliding base to do so.
Photo of sliding bevel used on a jig.
For angled tenons, none of the tested jigs has an angle scale on the rear stop, so you must set an angle using a sliding T-bevel or similar device.

Delta, no. 34-184

Photo of Delta 34-184

Overall grade: A

Subtle differences among such similar jigs add up to make this our favorite model. A push-button release helps this base adjust side-to-side easiest, and the most responsive microadjuster makes it a cinch to dial in a perfect-fitting tenon. It slides smoothly in the miter slot, and the large-diameter handles feel the most natural. The workpiece rear stop tilts only to 45°—all other test models extend 48–50°—but we rarely needmore than 45°.  


Rockler, no. 29840

Photo of Rockler 29840

Overall grade: A–

Unlike the two vertical handles typical of a tenong jig, one of this jig's handles mounts horizontally, so you grip it differently (though we found no advantage). We like that the miter bar relocates without disassembling the jig.


WoodRiver, no. 163700

Photo of Woodriver 163700

Overall grade: A–

Nearly identical to the Rockler jig, but we found the base plate more difficult to slide side-to-side when making coarse adjustments.


Grizzly, no. T30491

Photo of Grizzly T30491

Overall grade: B+

This bare-bones model won't dazzle you, but it does everything a tenoning jig should do safely and accurately.


Shop Fox, no. D4902

Photo of Shop Fox D4902

Overall grade: B+

This model is a twin to the Grizzly, with only cosmetic differences.


Miter Gages

Photo of a miter gauge on tables

A miter gauge guides a workpiece for spot-on crosscuts and miters. These upgrades outperform the typical factory-supplied gauges, thanks to precise scales, including Vernier scales on some models that allow for fine-tuning angles to 1⁄10°. All of the miter gauges we tested have positive detent stops for 0°, 22-1⁄2°, and 45°. Models with fences and length stops make it a snap to cut multiple parts to equal length.

Photo of scale on Incra's miter
Incra's Miter 1000HD accurately locks in 180 angles: just drop the pointer in the corresponding detent and secure.
Photo of extended fence on JessEm miter gauge
Several miter gauges, such as JessEm, incorporate extendable fences. Scales on the extension continue the precise measuring of the main fence.
Photo of flip stops on Incra Miter
Two flip-stops on the Incra Miter 1000HD can be linked with a steel rod, or used independently to make two cuts, such as the sides of a dado, without repositioning the stop.

Incra Miter 1000HD

Photo of Incra 1000HD

Miter detents: 180

Overall grade: A

This jig screams precision. From its can't-miss sawtooth miter detents, to its Vernier scale, to its 32"-long fence with dual-function flip-stop that indexes in 1⁄32" increments, to its miter-bar adjusters you tweak while the jig rests in the miter slot, this is the most comprehensive miter gauge we tested. Our only gripe is that to reposition the fence on the head, you must use an included wrench; we'd prefer tool-free knobs.


Kreg, no. KMS7102

Photo of KMS7102

Miter detents: 9

Overall grade: A

Accurate detents and easy-to-eyeball non-detent angle setting, including a Vernier scale, make using this miter gauge a breeze. We like this flip-stop best for its easy-to-read cursor and ability to reach over a 3⁄4" auxiliary fence—but lacking a telescoping extension, you're limited to cutting a maximum of 21-3⁄4" using the flip-stop.


JessEm, no. 07150

Photo of JessEm 07150

Miter detents: 9

Overall grade: A–

Another gauge that's spot-on accurate, including a Vernier scale. The end stop on the telescoping fence maxes at 36-1⁄4" but if you add a 3⁄4" auxiliary fence to the main fence body—which works perfectly with the flip stop—the extension's end stop becomes useless. Otherwise, the fence and scale work great. In our tests, the snuggers on the miter bar lost their setting over a couple of weeks of use and needed readjusting.


Incra Miter V120

Photo of Incra V120

Miter detents: 120

Overall grade: B+

With 120 detents in 1° increments plus 22.5°, this gauge delivers all the precision you might ever need. You don't get a fence, but adding a shop-made one proves easy enough.


Harvey Compass, no. MG-36

Photo of Harvey Compass MG36

Miter detents: 7

Overall grade: B

The quality of machining and materials on this gauge speaks to its precision. Despite only seven miter detents, we found it easy to set non-detent angles. The fence flip-stop works well and has a microadjuster for fine-tuning, but the fence scale lacks numbers—we found it easier to use a tape or rule to set it each time. The fence telescopes for a maximum crosscut of 28-3⁄4" using the flip-stop.


Rockler, no. 62095

Photo of Rockler 62095

Miter detents: 11

Overall grade: B–

Although the 60° angle detents were slightly off—an angle we rarely if ever cut on a tablesaw—we otherwise found this miter gauge spot-on. The melamine-coated-MDF fence provides zero-clearance support, but over time you'll need to replace it. The fence lacks a scale, but its flip-stop reaches up to a 23" crosscut when you extend the fence.


Woodhaven, no. 4910

Photo of Woodhaven 4910

Miter detents: 15

Overall grade: B

The miter detents proved spot-on and lock securely with a threaded brass pin. Choose one of two angle indicators to use for setting non-detent angles: a standard pointer or a Vernier-scale pointer; these need to be recalibrated when swapped out. This model lacks a fence, but has screw holes for attaching a shop-made fence.


Fulton, no. 11567

Photo of Fulton1567

Miter detents: 13

Overall grade: C–

When using the detent settings, you'll get precise cuts with this gauge. However, the cursor hides the single-degree increments, making it next to impossible to accurately set a non-detent angle by eye. The fence scale on the front face reads easiest when you look over the fence and down at it; we found it more difficult to use than top-mounted scales. 


Incra Miter V27

Photo of Incra V27

Miter detents: 27

Overall grade: C–

This gauge delivers precise angles for the 27 detent settings (0°, 5°–60° in 5° increments, and 22-1⁄2°), but without a cursor that aligns over the angle marks, you have to set non-detent angles by eyeballing the pointer with the desired angle mark. 


Setup/Allignment Guages

Photo of setup gauge on tablesaw

A setup gauge helps you aligning the blade and rip fence with the top, ensuring accurate cuts. Most of the gauges we tested also can check your tablesaw arbor for runout, and some can be used to set up and align other tools and machines.

Photo of setup gauge on tablesaw
A barbell-like rod resting on two smaller steel rods ensures the Woodpeckers gauge maintains perfect center in the slot rather than resting against an edge.
Photo of setup gauge in vertical orientation
Setup gauges go vertical to check for arbor runout by repositioning the dial indicator and pointer.

A-Line-It Deluxe

Photo of A-Line-It Delux

Overall grade: A

Easy to use and precise: Who wouldn't want that? We like its dial indicator's easy-to-read face, the miter bar's spring-loaded ball catches that eliminate slot slop, a long bar that provides up to 12-1⁄4" of reach, and all the tools and accessory tips you'll need for each application. 


A-Line-It Basic

Photo of A-Line-it Basic

Overall grade: A

This gauge uses the same indicator and miter bar as the deluxe model, but with a shorter arm (7-7⁄8" maximum reach) and no accessory tips.


Woodpeckers Saw Gauge 2.0, no. SG2-WP

Photo of Woodpeckers SB2-wp

Overall grade: A

This gauge requires no tweaking to make it fit in a miter slot (see photo at bottom left, previous page). It uses a T-track bar mounted to a locking block that holds securely and reaches up to 37" (using all three T-track bars). It sets up quickly, and the dial indicator reads perfectly.


Woodpeckers Saw Gauge, no. SG-WP

Photo of Woodpeckers SG-wp

Overall grade: A–

Similar to the SG2-WP, this gauge takes only seconds to set up and use accurately, although it lacks the reach of its sibling for some uses.


EZ-Align Alignment Gauge, no. 35-378A

Photo of EZ-Align 35-378A

Overall grade: A–

It's hard to beat the value of this gauge, and it works great at aligning the blade and fence. Magnets and ball catches hold the miter bar securely in the slot, and the dial reads easily.


iGaging DigiAlign, no. 35-0928

Photo of iGaging DigiAlign 35-0928

Overall grade: A–

Nearly identical to the EZ-Align, this gauge uses a digital indicator (powered by a battery) that works well enough, but doesn't seem worth the upcharge.


MasterGage SuperBar

Photo of MasterGage SuperBar

Overall grade: B+

Drop the magnetic gauge into a miter slot and it clings to one side yet still slides smoothly. We needed both removable indicator-arm extensions to reach the blade on our saw. (For benchtop saws with nonferrous-metal tops, MasterGage sells a nonmagnetic resin-body version for the same price.)


Betterley Una-Gauge,no. UG-1000

Photo of Betterley Una-Guage UG-1000

Overall grade: B

More than just a tablesaw gauge, this model comes with accessories to set up almost any machine in your shop. The miter bar has one ball catch, so the bar tends to rock a bit as you measure. Rare-earth magnets hold the gauge in place on steel and cast-iron surfaces.


Magswitch Universal Saw Indicator, no. 81101304

Photo of Magswitch 81101304

Overall grade: B

This gauge uses two on/off MagJigs to grip the steel bar of your miter gauge (positioned in the slot) to align the blade and rip fence.