Circular Saws

We tested 10 electric 7¼" sidewinder-style models priced $90–$160 in search of the ideal saw for your shop.

WOOD Magazine Staff July 27, 2020

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Every workshop needs a circular saw for cutting up lumber and sheet goods. But, because you won't use one every day, you might be tempted to buy a low-dough model. Don't. The saws we tested cost a few bucks more, but reward you with robust 15-amp motors, heavy-duty footplates, and other features that help them significantly outperform their lesser siblings. And because they're built to withstand job-site use, any of these should last a decade or longer in your shop.

Power and accuracy abound

To test the saws for power, we outfitted each with a new Freud Diablo 24-tooth blade and ran them through a series of demanding cuts, ripping 1¹⁄₂ "-thick red oak and treated pine, and making full-depth rip cuts—all have the capacity to cut at least 2⁵⁄₁₆ " deep at 90°—in 4×4 treated pine. Each saw powered through all cuts with ease. So power won't be a concern with any of them.

Next, we tested the reliability of each saw's cutline indicators (one for 90° cuts and the other for 45° bevels (photos below). We found all of the indicators spot-on for aligning the blade to a cutline when free-handing a cut. But visibility may become an issue, depending on how you use the saw.

Track the line. Cutline indicators on the front and inside edges of DeWalt's footplate help you start a cut and then keep the blade cutting along a straight line.

Back-door help. The Skilsaw Sidewinder also has cutline indicators at the rear edge of the footplate to help you stay on course as you complete a cut.

The Craftsman 27311, Makita 5007MGA, DeWalt DWE575SB, and Milwaukee 6394-21 saws provide the clearest sight lines to the cutline indicators, whether you're operating the saw from the right or left side, using one hand or two. (See the chart for cutline-visibility ratings on each saw.)

Skil created the first portable circular saw in 1924, and although the term "Skilsaw" has become synonymous with this type of tool, it's a trademarked name for that brand.

Because circular saws cut on the upstroke, sawdust inevitably spews onto the cutline, often obscuring it. All the saws but the Kobalt K15CS-06AB, Milwaukee, and Ridgid R3205 have a built-in blower or direct the airstream coming off the blade to clear the cutline. And LED lights on the Craftsman, Makita, and Kobalt saws help illuminate the cutline. We did not, however, find the Craftsman's laser reliable or useful, and simply turned it off.

On solid footing

Low-priced, entry-level circ saws typically have small, thin stamped-steel footplates that can bend easily if dropped, and often have rolled-up edges that can ride up over a straightedge guide. The saws we tested have larger, thicker footplates made of lightweight aluminum or magnesium, and crisp 90° edges that butt nicely against a straightedge guide for greater accuracy. The Hitachi C7BMR's footplate, though, had sharp edges as well as a rough bottom that created drag on workpieces. We resolved this by smoothing the footplate with 220-grit sandpaper.

Quick lift. Setting the cutting depth on the Bosch saw is easy because the lever is easily accessible and the scale marked in common board thicknesses.

Easy tilting. Makita's footplate tilts to 56°, and has stops for the more commonly used 22.5°and 45° cuts.

Changing the depth of cut on these saws requires loosening a lever lock at the rear of the saw and adjusting the footplate to the desired level. All the locks held solidly, but we prefer those mounted on the left side of the handle assembly (above) because they provide better access than those pinched between the handle and blade shroud (DeWalt, Hitachi, Skil Sidewinder). All but the Hitachi have cut-depth scales on the blade cover, either in inches or nominal board thicknesses (2×, ³⁄₄ , etc.). We found the scales on the Bosch, Makita, and Skilsaw easiest to read.

Each saw's footplate also tilts to at least 55° for bevel-cutting. All use a lever to secure this setting except the Craftsman, which has a fussier wing nut. Each lock held without issues. All models have a 45° stop, except Kobalt and Milwaukee, which have no stops other than 0° and 56°. See the chart for a complete list of tilt angles and stops.

Get a grip

Get the most from your circular saw by applying our favorite tips.

Each saw's handle has some rubber overmold for better grip; DeWalt, Hitachi, and Makita are our favorites. All have a single trigger—no safety release, a feature more common to DIY-level models—to power the saw. All the handle/trigger assemblies work well, but the small Ridgid handle opening could be awkward for large hands. Milwaukee's multiposition handle (shown below) is nice, and its front bale sits on the tilting mechanism rather than the saw body, keeping open sightlines to the cutline indicators.

Find your comfort level. The Milwaukee's handle adjusts to any of eight positions. You might like the back position for crosscutting lumber, but prefer the front position for ripping sheet goods that requires a long arm reach.

More saw-buying factors

* Blades. All the saws come with a blade best suited for ripping lumber (16–24 teeth). Of these, the Makita and Skilsaw blades cut with the least amount of tear-out.

To change blades, you depress an arbor lock and loosen the bolt with a wrench. This wrench comes with each saw, but the Bosch CS10, Craftsman, Hitachi, and Porter-Cable PC15TCSM do not have on-board storage for the wrench.

* Blade guards. Kobalt's blade guard hangs up slightly at the start of a full-depth cut, but works acceptably otherwise. The guards on the other saws worked well without issue.

* Electric cords. All saws but the Craftsman have supple rubber power cords that measure 8' or longer. That length proves especially helpful when ripping full sheets of plywood. Milwaukee's cord detaches for easy storage in its plastic case, or replacement should it get damaged.

* Blade brakes. DeWalt, Hitachi, Kobalt, Makita, and Milwaukee equip their saws with automatic brakes that stop the blade in about two seconds or less after you release the trigger. The others coast to a stop, taking nearly eight seconds for some.

* Noise levels. These saws are all so loud (at least 93 decibels under no load) that you need to wear hearing protection when using any of them. The Skilsaw measured loudest at an ear-piercing 103 dB.

Let's cut to the chase

Although you'd likely be happy with any of these saws, the Makita 5007MGA outshines the field and ranks as our Top Tool. This saw cuts fastest among this group with great sightlines, its footplate adjusts easily, it handles well, and comes with a plastic case.

The Ridgid R3205, selling for $60 less, cuts well, adjusts easily, and comes with a 3-year warranty as well as Ridgid's opt-in Lifetime Service Agreement. These attributes earn it our Top Value award.