When it comes to crosscutting wood for projects, nothing beats a
10" sliding mitersaw, which can cut monster-size workpieces up to
about 12" wide and 4" thick. Sure, you can use a tablesaw, but for
long workpieces, it's easier to move the saw through the wood than
vice versa.
Mitersaw, slider, or radial-arm saw: Which is best for you?
Obviously, non-sliding mitersaws can't cut as wide as a sliding
mitersaw (SCMS) or radial-arm saw (RAS), That increased capacity
comes at a higher cost. However, the more moving parts a tool has,
the more opportunity for error and misalignment. Compound mitersaws
only tilt and rotate; SCMSs tilt, rotate, and slide; RASs tilt,
rotate, slide, and the head pivots on its carriage to turn it into
a ripping machine. Simply put, a 10" SCMS represents the best combination
of accuracy, capacity, safety, and price for the home woodworker.
You can't use a dado set on a SCMS, but that doesn't mean you can’t
make partial-depth cuts. All sliders have a depth of cut adjustment
for just that purpose. Tenoning bed rails, and producing half-lap
joints in outdoor structures are two examples of how you might use
this feature in a woodworking shop.
Six qualities that separate the sliding saws
1. Power and smooth cuts. We crosscut 2"-thick hard maple with
all of the saws using their factory-supplied blades, then repeated
the cuts using identical new blades.
2. Accurate stops. Miter stops should snap reliably into place
every time so that when you need a 45 degree miter cut, for example, the
saw will hit it without you fussing and tweaking. Bevel stops must
be reliable.
3. Easy-to-read scales. We prefer scales with fine lines and
widely spaced graduations that make it easy to accurately set angles,
and even "eyeball" angles to a fraction of a degree.
4. Effortless and precise cutting action. Here, we considered
all things related to actually cutting with the saw, including the
smoothness of the plunge and sliding action, deflection of the head
(the motor-and-blade assembly), ease of using the power switch,
and handle comfort.
5. Ability to cut wide and deep. Let's face it: You buy a
slider for the extra capacity it provides over a regular compound
mitersaw. All of the saws can miter-cut angles larger than 45 degrees in
at least one direction (most can overcut both ways) and that's handy,
for example, when cutting molding for an out-of square corner.
6. A supportive fence. Fence support near the blade is essential
when cutting thin stock on edge, but that need has to be balanced
with the ability of the blade to tilt for bevel cutting. Some saws
employ movable left fences that stay in close for 0°-bevel cuts,
and then flip or slide out of the way to accommodate the tilting head.
Learn the results of our testing of the Bosch 3915 and 4410, Delta
36-240, Hitachi C10FSH, Makita LS1013, Milwaukee 6497-6, and Porter-Cable
3807 when you pick up the March 2004 issue of WOOD magazine and turn
to page 74.
Or, you can download the complete review , including charts and photos, for only $4.95.
Editor's Choice Top Tool: Bosch 4410
Editor's Choice Top Value: Hitachi C10 FSH
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