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Spend a little money
on a planer today and you'll save money for a lifetime: Instead of paying
home-center prices for preplaned boards, you can
buy less-than-perfect lumber in a wide variety of species--including
exotics--and thickness it yourself.
Planers come in two varieties. Large, stationary machines handle stock
up to 15" or 20" wide (depending on the model) and cost from $800
on up. More common, though, are planers capable of machining stock up to
13" wide and selling for $200-$500. We put nine such models through
their paces to find out which one is best for you and your budget. Before
we dig into our test results, let's bury the old name for this class of
machines--portable planers--because each new model seems to get less
portable. The lightest planer in our test weighs in at 53 lbs; the
heaviest, nearly twice that.
Cut quality: It comes down to scallops and snipe
To plane a board to thickness by hand, you'd
literally shave it down one stroke at a time, using a single blade in a
jack plane. A planer multiplies that action exponentially, with two or
three knives mounted around a rotating cutterhead.
This rotary cutting action results in a series of shallow scallops that
makes the board essentially flat, and the closer those scallops are
together, the smoother the surface. That's why you'll often see "cuts per
inch" (cpi) listed in a planer's specs. Planer
manufacturers increase cpi by speeding the cutterhead (rpm), adding a knife, slowing the board
feed rate, or some combination of the three. But is cpi
a reliable gauge of cut quality? To find out, we planed 30"-long oak
boards of various widths and thicknesses with each planer.
The second measure of cut quality is snipe: the annoying tendency of
planers to take a too-deep bite a few inches from each end of a board.
Snipe happens when only one drive roller engages the workpiece,
allowing it to rock the head or lift up slightly into the cutterhead. Snipe measuring less than .002" deep
hand-sands away easily; between .002" and .003" requires power sanding to smooth, and anything deeper
will need to be cut off. Just as you wouldn't expect a tablesaw
to cut perfectly out of the box, a planer usually needs some adjustment to
minimize snipe; so we tweaked each machine to its peak performance before
measuring the snipe.
Both the DeWalt DW735 and Delta 22-580 performed
well in our tests, and we’d be pleased to have either one in our shop. Both
have their Achilles’ heels, though: On Delta, it’s the clumsy thickness
stop and hit-or-miss depth-of-cut gauge. With the DW735, you have to buy
accessory extension tables ($45), or it snipes like a $200 planer. But
we’ll give the DW735 the Top Tool nod--by a nose--based on its superior cut
quality.
Our Top Value choices were a bit easier. The Ridgid
TP1300LS and Ryobi AP1301 left surfaces as smooth
as the Delta 22-580. Ridgid does it for $40 less
than the 22-580, and the TP1300LS also comes with extra knives, a leg
stand, and dust hood. The
bottom-dollar Ryobi planer costs $150 less than
either of those models, but plan to cut off the sniped ends or build your
own infeed and outfeed
tables.
Learn the detailed results of our testing of the Delta 22-580 and TP305, DeWalt DW734 and DW735, Grizzly G0505, Jet JWP13DX,
Makita 2012NB, Ridgid TP1300LS, and Ryobi AP1301 when you pick up the November 2006 issue
of WOOD magazine and turn to page 74. Or you can LINK TO DOWNLOAD download the review for only $4.95.
Editor's Choice Top Tool: DeWalt DW735
Editor's Choice Top Values: Ridgid TP1300LS and
the Ryobi AP1301
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On page 57 in the magazine it points you to the woodvision section of your web site to see how the Planers were tuned for the test. I looked there and here at the review and can not find any information for adjusting the tables on my planer.
1/16/2010 05:14:05 PM Report Abuse