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Tablesaw Tips and Tricks

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Glue setscrews for a temporary grip

Glue setscrews for a temporary grip

My tablesaw's throat insert used to cause me a lot of grief. Vibration loosened the setscrews over time, and the insert dropped down below the tabletop. When I tried to rip a board, the bottom edge of the forward end would catch, resulting in an end grain tear-out.

To keep the setscrews firmly in place, I put a dab of Loctite 242 on the threads. The thread-locker prevents the setscrews from moving, but a hearty twist with an allen wrench breaks the bond.

-- R.J. Lemerise, Utica, Mich.

Buy Loctite 242

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Comments (25)
7907942004
apoor3039809 wrote:

In response to rjclark42: my inserts were below the table surface. Rather than use screws, however, I rubbed the four support tabs with candle wax, then put a gob of hotmelt glue on each one. I placed the insert on top of the glue and held it level with the table surface using a metal square. In seconds, it was flush, and no adjustments are needed when I want to use it again.

12/15/2011 10:03:43 AM Report Abuse
whelan353 wrote:

Eliminate vibration.

7/15/2011 07:27:12 AM Report Abuse
AllenTP wrote:

Try using aluminum furnace duct tape. It is very thin and very consistent - almost like having sticky shim stock. It is not as mushy as using masking tape or the cloth type duct tape. It works well as a permanent shim to allow use of a stock thickness of insert.

7/14/2011 02:46:57 PM Report Abuse
knotcutter wrote:

arnold is right ive used finger nail polish for years not only on my saw but to keep gun scope screws tight too. and yes the clear is the best. go ahead a laugh but yes woodworkers can have finger nail polish in their shop.

7/14/2011 12:35:34 PM Report Abuse
whward wrote:

BE SURE YOU GET "Locktite 242". Other locktites take high heat to release.

7/14/2011 10:24:08 AM Report Abuse
fella1740720 wrote:

locktite Blue works perfectly fine and will release no problem. I use it in my RC helicopter, where the screws are a lot smaller and the threads are finer and it holds perfectly and releases when you want it to.

4/7/2011 12:22:14 PM Report Abuse
ZekFussel wrote:

Thread lockers & small hex drive screws are not a real good mix. heat gun if necessary GOOP is a wonderful anti-looser medium I make all my insets our of 1/4" thick Lexan(TM)including band saw Since you are using the same saw all the time just shim the low support point w/a permanent shim but not in the way of the factory plates set screws Make tight fit drill finger p/u hole & let them lay in w/o fasting fence over will keep in place also Never had a problem Paint underside if desired

2/4/2011 11:24:44 AM Report Abuse
Boissevain wrote:

JIM Imake my insets out of mdf, plane to exact thicknes, If thereis any div i use hot glue on tabs ,push down so the insert is comp flush works good fo me

2/3/2011 07:36:22 PM Report Abuse
dragoondude wrote:

I have found that a dab of rubber cement, the sort used for paper, works very well.

1/13/2011 03:55:17 PM Report Abuse
sun.con wrote:

To rjclark42: Without adjustment, you can fabricate custom inserts. Trace the factory insert with a flush-cutting router bit for precise fit. With careful procedure you should have a perfect fit. A scrap of 2x4-such as soft pine that will span your saw table is clamped lengthwise over the insert; gently ease your blade to its vertical limit cutting through the 2x4. If it fits OK you're done. If you use dado blades, a new insert with correct kerf is required .

10/22/2010 09:20:24 PM Report Abuse
Harry Whitney wrote:

I have worked on a lot theodolites for surveyors, what we used is shellac to set adjustments. De-natured alcohol, was used to soften and loosen set screws. This method was used for over 50 years.

10/21/2010 10:31:14 AM Report Abuse
billrd01 wrote:

The red Loctite is virtually permanent, the blue is temporary.

10/14/2010 12:41:06 PM Report Abuse
deps wrote:

I added small "O" rings on the set screws on the bottom side of all my inserts on my DELTA tablesaw, works like a charm.

10/14/2010 12:36:55 PM Report Abuse
mikedrums wrote:

Loctite 242 isn't the same as the Loctite most people think of. It is specifically designed to release "where disassembly is required for servicing."

10/14/2010 10:49:45 AM Report Abuse
thomasdombroski wrote:

As to the suggestion from Arnold using nail polish. I totally agree, except, use clear nail polish. That is something I found about many years ago. Just use some on the threads of the set screws and adjust them for the correct setting.

10/14/2010 10:44:53 AM Report Abuse
wfldodson wrote:

Regarding Loctite, there are various grades of Loctite with different degrees of hold. You can select one with a lower strength for this application.

10/14/2010 10:39:49 AM Report Abuse
arnoldroff wrote:

DO NOT use Loctite! Many nuts and bolts have been striped using Locktite. Use fingernail polish instead because it works like Locktite but don't hold as hard as locktite. You can use it and recover the fasteners without stripping them. The advantage to fingernail polish...use any color you want so you see where you used it. Using Locktite for the tablesaw insert is OVERKILL to hold the fasteners in place.

10/14/2010 10:33:06 AM Report Abuse
T-Lewis wrote:

Hi,rjclark 42, I make my own zero clearence inserts out of 1/2" baltic birch and use small screws under the insert to adjust hight. You could also, use layers of duct tape on those little ears that the set screws would sit on to adjust the hight of the insert. I found that the insert on my bandsaw was a little low, so I use a little masking tape to get it level with the table. The duct tape was too thick.

8/2/2010 11:44:14 PM Report Abuse
rjclark42 wrote:

I have a Sears table saw with no adjustment screws. My aftermarket insert is below the tabletop. I have tried to use wood shims beneath the insert but they get lost at blade change. Any suggestions for more permenent solution?

7/26/2010 09:18:28 AM Report Abuse
daveowen1 wrote:

My table saw has four small supports for the insert. Careful work with a file made all of these supports the same depth below the table top. I make my inserts from Corian - slightly thicker than the support depth. The tops are made flush with the table top (and rock solid)by drilling four half-round recesses in the bottom with a 1-1/2" Forstner bit. This is similar to billrd01's solution - both of which eliminate the need for adjusting screws.

7/23/2010 02:32:45 PM Report Abuse
elomeli381 wrote:

I see the safety issue from a close and personal perspective, and I have the left thumb, or most of it to show for it. This is a dangerous way to do it. I was doing somethig quite similar to it, the blade and my thumb met in the middle and guess who won? I would go with a larger piece and definitely a handle to push your material through. Believe me, you do really need your thumbs/fingers in good shape.

7/22/2010 03:51:45 PM Report Abuse
billrd01 wrote:

Additionally - all my inserts are same thickness so I glue shims on the table under them to bring them level with table surface - so I was referring to the hold down screw(s) as I don't have "leveling" screws.

7/22/2010 11:38:55 AM Report Abuse
billrd01 wrote:

Counter sink the holes and use flathead Phillips screws- musch easier to tighten (and loosen). Especially if you are changing your inserts often.

7/22/2010 11:32:02 AM Report Abuse
ronnat4227695 wrote:

I use locking Helicoils in the insert. This allows small adjustments and they don't vibrate loose.

7/22/2010 10:03:44 AM Report Abuse
PePaw wrote:

HI '53' I pilfered a very handy shop instrument from the back of the medicine cabinet that had been a very much used item for our babies thru a few years old. A nasal syringe. It has a large soft rubber body and a long soft tapered 'nose'. It was useful for relieving 'congested' nostrals by suction. I use it in many different situations but especially for blowing sawdust out of the allen screws so the wrench will slip in. Buy a new one and pick the most visible color you can find.

5/7/2010 11:25:08 AM Report Abuse

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