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To joint long pieces of material, tune in to J-channel

To joint long pieces of material, tune in to J-channel

I needed to put a straight edge on a long piece of stock, but because the piece was longer than my jointer's tables, I didn't have much luck. I headed to the hardware store and bought an 8' length of aluminum J-channel (normally used with aluminum siding).

I sawed off the flange, as shown, and attached the J-channel to my board with cloth-backed double-faced tape. Keeping the channel against my tablesaw's rip fence, I then cut a straight edge on the opposite edge of the stock.

With this one 8' piece of J-channel, I've found that I can joint stock up to 10' long. The tape will keep its tack for many boards if you wipe the dust from the wood before applying the channel.

-- Ron Radecki, Grand Rapids, Mich.

Complete Guide to Joinery

Buy an 8-foot aluminum "J" channel

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Comments (10)
Hambone wrote:

If I'm gonna join those boards after this step I place two boards together and tack a strip of 1"X 2" on each end set my fence where it splits the joined boards down the middle. Don't force the boards together when you glue em you want em touching without any clamps. Use clamps to glue but not to pull the boards together.

5/23/2013 01:46:46 PM Report Abuse
claysoules wrote:

TO: lpf1; not true. This method is for turing one edge, remove channel,flip board over and true the second edge to the first. Think about it.

7/16/2011 10:03:17 AM Report Abuse
lfp1 wrote:

You would have to make sure that the J channel flange (against the wood) and the J channel back (against the fence) are parallel. I would think a piece of angle would be better?

7/14/2011 10:42:45 AM Report Abuse
ZekFussel wrote:

Rip a 4"W frm facty edge of 3/4 plyw Cut 1"W strip affix to edge of 4" pc Attach 3"pc at one end Make handle attach to end w/3" stop Use by place crown out to blade Set fence to rip sgt edge Make jigs 4'/6' or Lv 8' use push stick if no handle

2/4/2011 04:30:54 PM Report Abuse
ZekFussel wrote:

Must have been another type J channel, correct alum siding J channel is to flimsy especially after you cut off the bottom. A lot of vendors do not sell one pc, usually have to buy a full carton as alum siding is about a thing of the past in favor of vinyl Will give my straight edge in another post.

2/4/2011 04:04:00 PM Report Abuse
cflaccus wrote:

Hey, great idea! I'm always trying to put that first straight edge on my band sawed (read wavy edged) lumber, and this seems like just the ticket.

5/7/2010 08:55:35 PM Report Abuse
bretthallett wrote:

Not to be negative, but aluminum j-channel is too flexible in my opinion. What i used is a 12' section of 4"x4"x1/8" galvanized angle iron clamped to my rip fence. This gives me at least 5' to 6' of straight edge on both sides of the blade. Most of the time i don't work with boards more than 6' long anyway. This insures a straight cut all the way down.

5/7/2010 07:41:50 AM Report Abuse
rupps3 wrote:

A strip of masonite or 1/4" ply could be used the same way. Just make sure it overhangs the rough edge toward the fence. The tape you reference would hold it well enough for a quick cut. Use new tape each time though, its cheap.

5/6/2010 05:38:49 PM Report Abuse
wa123lb wrote:

I've been using my router and clamp-on straight edge as a jointer for a good many years. To set the straight edge the proper distance from the edge to be jointed, I cut a 4-foot long piece of 1/4" hardboard to the same width as the 1/2" straight router bit is from the edge of the router plate. It works perfectly. It takes a bit of time, but I'm retired and have lots of it.

4/10/2010 02:20:09 PM Report Abuse
nubby968204 wrote:

Never thought of a J channel. Been using another piece of aluminum to do the same thing for years. Works terrific.

4/8/2010 04:54:20 PM Report Abuse

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