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Tablesaw tips, tricks, and techniques part 1

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Make a quick zero-clearance tabletop

Make a quick zero-clearance tabletop.

Instead of crafting a new zero-clearance insert to replace your tablesaw's factory throat-plate insert, create a temporary tabletop for your saw in seconds, as shown. Set the fence for the cut you intend to make; then mount a piece of 1/4" hardboard to your tablesaw top with clamps or cloth-backed, double-face tape. Hold the hardboard down with another scrap and then slowly raise the spinning blade through the hardboard to cutting height.

You need to first attach your temporary hardboard tabletop to the saw's tabletop, then raise the blade through it, and finally, set the distance from the rip fence.

Note: Blade guards have been removed in these photos for clarity. Always use the appropriate safety guards with your tools.

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Comments (16)
jmsatverona wrote:


1/9/2014 04:34:52 PM Report Abuse
jmsatverona wrote:


1/9/2014 04:33:58 PM Report Abuse
summerspa wrote:

If your board is wide enough you can leave a gap between the hardboard and fence, even a inch or two. Just make sure your push stick is on the hardboard.

1/9/2014 12:27:23 PM Report Abuse
lrjohnson49632 wrote:

If you want your nut and bolt to be locked permanently use Loctite Threadlocker Red 271. Only heating it up to 500F will allow disassembly. If you want your fastener to be locked but want to be able to unlock with a wrench or pliers then use Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242.

1/9/2014 10:42:23 AM Report Abuse
gl-bjsr wrote:

Basic geometry, gentlemen. If the masonite will stick down all over, and if it is a 45 degree cut, set the fence 1/4 inch closer and the blade will rise cleanly up at 45. How about just make a normal cut, use a plane or jointer to clean up?

1/23/2013 07:08:12 PM Report Abuse
jdmongo wrote:

I don't believe one can achieve a zero clearance at a 45 deg. angle....

1/21/2013 04:21:25 PM Report Abuse
jimvasi2 wrote:

Half of these comments just show how ignorant some people are about tabve saw usage. Of course you cannot put anything underneath the fence. You must butt up to the fence after locking it in the correct position allowing for the thickness of the sacrificial board. Anf , YES, you can raise the spinning blade through the scrap wood at any angle. Signed, WOODEYE

1/18/2013 05:47:30 PM Report Abuse
paulmart1060447 wrote:

45 will work because the blade still raises at 90 to its pivot. The problem is that when you set the fence, the distance between the blade and fence increases in proportion to the angle of the blade and thickness of the hardboard.

1/18/2013 11:32:02 AM Report Abuse
ktb wrote:

Tip is OK but... if sawing at 45 degree, the fence should be set at desired width minus 1/4".

1/18/2013 11:30:39 AM Report Abuse
dg1521 wrote:

wheeler, the instructions say to set the fence first, then place the hardboard in place. You will not be able to move the fence over the hardboard for the reasons you stated. Once the hardboard is in place raise the spinning blade at the pre-set angle. This makes a lot of sense and an idea I will implement.

1/17/2013 03:12:06 PM Report Abuse
pauld4207171 wrote:

I am pretty courious about that also Don't think you can raise a blade streight up thru a board with it set at a 45 Degree or any angle but 90.

1/17/2013 02:21:45 PM Report Abuse
rmessg7 wrote:

The instructions say set your fence then mount the table top. I take this to mean BUTT the tabletop to the fence NOT under it. Stop trying to find fault with everything you didn't think of.

1/17/2013 01:36:00 PM Report Abuse
woody14010 wrote:

This written instruction seems to give opposite instructions from top to bottom.

1/17/2013 10:20:59 AM Report Abuse
wheeler7501 wrote:

On my Delta saw table, when you attach 1/4 inch temporary hardboard table top, there is not enough clearance to slide the fence over it, in fact not even 1/8 inch hardboard will work - You would have to position the fence before you bring the saw up through the hardboard tabletop - Your instruction shows the opposite.

1/17/2013 10:05:15 AM Report Abuse
dhecker7 wrote:

simply raise the blade into the hardboard after you turn on the saw

3/8/2012 02:28:30 PM Report Abuse
ralphsebrell wrote:

I understand making a 90' zero clearance, but you're showing a 45' How it that done???

3/8/2012 12:57:54 PM Report Abuse

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