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Zero (chip-out) tolerance

Don't accept workpiece chip-out on your tablesaw. Instead, eliminate it by using a zero-clearance insert for every cut you make.

Anyone who's ever crosscut oak plywood knows how face-grain chip-out can ruin an edge. Once the damage is done, you're forced to either fill those voids or accept the flaws on your project.

But you don't have to live with chip-out. A shop-made zero-clearance insert replaces your tablesaw's factory-supplied throat plate--and its wide gap that allows unsupported wood fibers to tear away during a cut. Because you cut the blade slot with the blade you're using, the zero-clearance insert fully supports the fibers.

It's a good idea to use an insert for every blade and every cut you make. Plowing a 3/4"-wide dado? Use a custom-fitting insert to stop chip-out. How about a 1/2" dado? Make another insert. Cutting a 30 bevel? Get an insert just for that. You can easily make insert plates, so cut out a dozen blanks and keep them handy for every time you change blades or bevel angles. After using an insert for a specific setup, mark it with that setting (and blade) and save it so you'll have it for the next time you make the same cut.

Continued on page 2:  How to make inserts fast


Comments (1)
torque96383 wrote:

I don't understand "you can do this with your tablesaw and 10" blade--with the original insert installed--if the relief exits the back of the insert." How do you cut the riving knife slot using the tablesaw itself. This sounds dangerous. Do you put the blade through the precut slot?

1/2/2015 01:15:32 AM Report Abuse

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