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Plywood Edging Bits

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Burgess Edge Set

Burgess Edge Set

The Burgess Edge Set consists of two mating cutters -- one to machine a curved recess in the edge of the plywood, and another to shape the solid-wood banding that fits into that recess. To use them, cut your plywood panel to finished size, and then rout the recess. Next, rout the bullnose on a blank of the same thickness as your panel, and glue it into the recess. Finally, trim your panel to finished size, removing the excess banding. The banding nests between the outer veneers of the plywood, virtually eliminating any sign of a joint line.

  • The banding looks as seamless as iron-on veneer tape, but its 1/4" thickness and larger glue surface area make it more durable than tape.
  • If you prefer a routed edge, you can leave the banding, say, 1/8" proud of the veneer, and then rout a 1/8" round-over.
  • Banding can't slip up or down on the edge of the plywood during glueup and clamping.
  • It's the only product of those we tested that can be used effectively in a handheld router.

  • Tolerances are so tight with this system that minor thickness variances in a single sheet of plywood can leave veneer near the edge fragile and prone to chipping.
  • We had to shim the bits to get them to match both the plywood thickness and each other. Several test cuts were needed to get the correct thickness and cutting height, like a rail-and-stile router-bit set.
  • Because of the captured nature of the banding, we found it difficult to measure for mitered corners when wrapping all four edges of a panel.
  • Despite the manufacturer's suggestion that the banding thickness needn't match the plywood thickness, we found it easier to machine the banding when the thicknesses matched exactly.
  • High cost.

  • Both bits have bearings to guide the workpiece, but we achieved our best results by setting our router-table fence flush with those bearings.
  • Also available for use with 1/2" plywood, and a shaper.

Continued on page 3:  Edge V-groove bits


Comments (9)
dalegj37 wrote:

When making picture frames from barn wood siding, I first use strips cut from the edges of the barn wood plank. However, the remaining center part of each plank has raw edges that need to be covered or the wood is wasted. Can this method of covering plywood edges be used to cover the edges of the barn wood planks center wood?

5/4/2013 03:01:33 PM Report Abuse
Rich J. wrote:

I use the tongue and groove bits for my projects, took a little trial and error to figure out, but they work fine. I usually cut the edging first then figure the final sizing of the plywood panel. This seems to save me some time.

4/7/2012 06:55:29 AM Report Abuse
Joe J T wrote:

To cut strips for edging, I start with a board, milled approx the same thickness as the panel, center the router bit to cut a v-strip. I then rip off the v-strip outside the blade at the table saw. I use my jointer, router table set up as jointer, or a hand plane and sand paper to trim the edges after gluing into the panel

4/5/2012 04:35:07 PM Report Abuse
Joe J T wrote:

To set up, I insert the v-cutting bit in the router table and I raise it to the center of the panel thickness. I use the bit to score a line at the midpoint, then flip the panel over and check that the bit is at the same level as the score. Next I set the fence by gradually moving it back until it is cutting a sharp edge on the top and bottom of the panel.

4/5/2012 04:28:52 PM Report Abuse
Joe J T wrote:

I have used this set for about a year and am very happy with the results. It creates a durable and invisible (my preference) edge One of the "cons" mentioned is the problem when trimming the panel to final size and making a 1/64" oops and ruining the panel. I cut the panel to final size before I cut the. I leave the edging proud and trim it back to the veneer or the face of the plywood. By the way, the panel is not ruined: simply run it over the v-cutter again and insert a new edge

4/5/2012 04:24:47 PM Report Abuse
winterseliza wrote:

It sounds like this could be one of the harder router bit sets to use. I found one here ( ) that looks somewhat easier to use. What do you guys think? I'm buying it as a gift for my husband. What set should I get? Thanks for your help.

11/10/2011 12:43:29 PM Report Abuse
plpercar wrote:

I bought this set and couldn't figure out how to get it to work proerly. It kept getting very wavy on me. I went through a lot of wood trying to master it but finally gave up!

4/16/2010 01:04:28 PM Report Abuse
stevied12 wrote:

No mention of a 60 degree tongue and groove? I've used that on a few projects (with the banding emphasized instead of hidden) and it works very nicely. It is very similar to the v-groove, but when used with a flush trim bit gives very nice results. Plus, it gives a stronger joint than any of those mentioned in this article.

4/8/2010 05:29:54 PM Report Abuse
keithlarsn wrote:

I used hardwood "V" strips to cover the edges of hardwood-veneer plywood on a large armoire. I used my tablesaw to cut all the bevels, both in the plywood edges and on the hardwood. I cut the bevels on the solid hardwood board edge before ripping the strip off. It was a lot of work but it came out really nice. I used a sacrificial fence and a good blade on my tablesaw for the "V" groove work. A good tablesaw and fence is a must, I'm sure for the tolerances to work.

4/8/2010 11:24:14 AM Report Abuse

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