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Bust Rust

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Power away rust

Power away rust

If you don't have either commercial cleaner, use a wire wheel in an electric drill to loosen rust particles, photo right. Then wipe the surface clean with acetone. On light rust, this method proves about as quick as the cleaners.

A wire wheel works better than the cleaners on deep rust, though. Keep the spinning brush flat on the surface to avoid scratching the cast iron. If you should create scratches, you can remove them with 400-grit wet/dry sandpaper and a light lubricant such as WD-40. Switch to 800 grit and repeat the process if you still see scratches.

Continued on page 5:  Now, seal the deal


Comments (10)
Plastic Man wrote:

Been using Johnsons paste wax for years now, just wipe on a thin coat and leave it. One winter the temperature jumped up from freezing to 60 degrees F and all my cast iron tops were sweating. That time I used Boeshield T-9 and let it dry. Saved everythibng from even the slightest rust.

3/9/2015 09:16:29 AM Report Abuse
mkrk400 wrote:

At Woodcraft--new name--

12/28/2014 11:30:18 PM Report Abuse
egates07 wrote:

Although WD40 is a great lubricant, it should never be used to inhibit or prevent rust. Check the ingredients and you'll find it contains hydrogen and what do we get when we mix hydrogen and air? H2O of course. when that comes in contact with bare steel such as a saw blade, you get FeO2 otherwise known as rust. Try spraying a light coat on a saw blade and leave it where it's exposed to regular unconditioned air over night. The next morning you should see a light coating of surface rust.

9/1/2014 03:56:28 PM Report Abuse
pf2 wrote:

I use Gun Blue on my tools and it works quite well; and I like the dark finish...

8/29/2014 09:27:49 PM Report Abuse
doneby94441 wrote:

A couple years ago I was restoring a bunch of old planes. I bought a couple gallons of Evapo-Rust and put the plane parts in a bath for a day or two. Then polished off the scale with steel wool or a dremel tool brass brush. Nice look and doesn't remove all the patina.

8/29/2014 09:16:55 AM Report Abuse
doneby94441 wrote:

I never much cared for T9. It didn't seem to protect all that well and made my saw table a bit sticky. I recently read about CRC's 3-36 Multi-Purpose Lubricany and Corrosion Inhibitor and I've become a believer. Spray it on, rub it around so every things is wetted, and let it dry.

8/29/2014 09:13:58 AM Report Abuse
methome1 wrote:

Good luck finding anywhere to buy Top Saver! As far as I could determine, there is only one company that sells the product in a separate bottle and they have not had any available for the last two months. You can find kits that contain Top Saver, but then you have to buy other products that come with the kit. Top Saver works great, I would love to be able to buy more and hope that maybe someone out there knows where it is available!

8/29/2014 06:34:50 AM Report Abuse
garyhill wrote:

I've been using paste wax for years, it has served me well.

8/28/2014 09:36:46 PM Report Abuse
jaglfr1248 wrote:

Whenever I get rust on my 66 year old cast iron table saw top I use WD-40 & a piece of fine grit (300) emery paper. It leaves a fine protection on my saw when I'm done.

8/28/2014 09:02:43 PM Report Abuse
pi.gregoire wrote:

I seal my cast iron tables with flore paste wax.

8/28/2014 05:47:50 PM Report Abuse

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