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Bust Rust

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Power away rust

Power away rust

If you don't have either commercial cleaner, use a wire wheel in an electric drill to loosen rust particles, photo right. Then wipe the surface clean with acetone. On light rust, this method proves about as quick as the cleaners.

A wire wheel works better than the cleaners on deep rust, though. Keep the spinning brush flat on the surface to avoid scratching the cast iron. If you should create scratches, you can remove them with 400-grit wet/dry sandpaper and a light lubricant such as WD-40. Switch to 800 grit and repeat the process if you still see scratches.

Continued on page 5:  Now, seal the deal


Comments (20)
Done it myself wrote:

Again it depends on the amount and depth of the rust. I use wd40 and sand with orbital sander and either 120 or 220 grit, then clean completely with paint thinner then finally coat with johnson paste wax.

10/20/2015 06:48:29 AM Report Abuse
mywildflower wrote:

Equal parts water and 5% vinegar solution (from the grocery store)

7/30/2015 06:37:51 PM Report Abuse
roberthitchins wrote:

@egates07 wrote "what do we get when we mix hydrogen and air? H2O of course". This is incorrect. Hydrogen is a diatomic gas and CANNOT combine with oxygen (another diatomic gas) without a lot of energy. Combining the two at normal pressure/temperature will never result in H20. Rust formation requires a relative humidity of at least 50%. Check out for details as to how rust REALLY forms.

7/23/2015 12:28:45 PM Report Abuse
jsmallho_219976 wrote:

I use Meguires automotive products. If the rust is light, Meguires Cleaner Wax works well. If the rust is heavy use a Medium Cut Polishing Compound, then the wax. It protects and also makes the table slick.

7/23/2015 09:57:11 AM Report Abuse wrote:

you can scrape a lot of rust dust off with a razor blade, you use to remove paint off glass no sludge or nasty slurry just rust dust

5/28/2015 07:35:07 PM Report Abuse
abibbero wrote:

My recent move from Colorado to Florida taught me about the need for rust mitigation very quickly. After using the WD40 and green scotch brite pad method to remove the rust. I then turned to the local boaters for suggestions about long term care. West Marine Corrosion Block is the trick. I have been using it for a year now and everything still looks great.

5/28/2015 09:51:47 AM Report Abuse
Plastic Man wrote:

Been using Johnsons paste wax for years now, just wipe on a thin coat and leave it. One winter the temperature jumped up from freezing to 60 degrees F and all my cast iron tops were sweating. That time I used Boeshield T-9 and let it dry. Saved everythibng from even the slightest rust.

3/9/2015 09:16:29 AM Report Abuse
doneby94441 wrote:

A couple years ago I was restoring a bunch of old planes. I bought a couple gallons of Evapo-Rust and put the plane parts in a bath for a day or two. Then polished off the scale with steel wool or a dremel tool brass brush. Nice look and doesn't remove all the patina.

8/29/2014 09:16:55 AM Report Abuse
doneby94441 wrote:

I never much cared for T9. It didn't seem to protect all that well and made my saw table a bit sticky. I recently read about CRC's 3-36 Multi-Purpose Lubricany and Corrosion Inhibitor and I've become a believer. Spray it on, rub it around so every things is wetted, and let it dry.

8/29/2014 09:13:58 AM Report Abuse
garyhill wrote:

I've been using paste wax for years, it has served me well.

8/28/2014 09:36:46 PM Report Abuse
jaglfr1248 wrote:

Whenever I get rust on my 66 year old cast iron table saw top I use WD-40 & a piece of fine grit (300) emery paper. It leaves a fine protection on my saw when I'm done.

8/28/2014 09:02:43 PM Report Abuse
pi.gregoire wrote:

I seal my cast iron tables with flore paste wax.

8/28/2014 05:47:50 PM Report Abuse

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