You can easily remove rust in one of two ways: Scrub with a commercial cleaner and an abrasive pad, or power it off using a spinning wire-wheel brush in a drill. Both methods work well, but with key differences you should know about.
WD40 and scotch-brite pads, then 400 grit wet & dry with a sanding block (2x4) and WD40. vinegar also works well. no power tools! especially on the tool tops, can cause sharp points and damage projects. p.s.: never use a silicon product either.
One note I forgot to add, I use steal wool when I use the WD-40 on my cast iron tables, then the automotive paste wax.
I use WD-40 on my cast iron top for my table saw. Then I use an automotive paste wax to protect it and keep the wood sliding across smoothly.
PS. Johnson's Paste Was is great for the cast iron and lots of other shop uses. I have a Shopsmith and it keeps everything sliding smoothly.
I have done two Craftsman Table Saws. I try to pull the extensions off and soak the cast iron in large tubs with vinegar. For the table top I made a dam out of duct tape and used the vinegar again. Over night works great and sometimes it takes a couple of applications. I finished it off using an automotive style air file and 220 paper. Great results. Vinegar is the real trick and I use the grocery store variety straight then flush with water.
What about sandblasting to get heavy rust off?
What about using a sandblaster to get the rust off?
Again it depends on the amount and depth of the rust. I use wd40 and sand with orbital sander and either 120 or 220 grit, then clean completely with paint thinner then finally coat with johnson paste wax.
Equal parts water and 5% vinegar solution (from the grocery store)
@egates07 wrote "what do we get when we mix hydrogen and air? H2O of course". This is incorrect. Hydrogen is a diatomic gas and CANNOT combine with oxygen (another diatomic gas) without a lot of energy. Combining the two at normal pressure/temperature will never result in H20. Rust formation requires a relative humidity of at least 50%. Check out http://corrosion-doctors.org/Experiments/rust-chemistry.htm for details as to how rust REALLY forms.
I use Meguires automotive products. If the rust is light, Meguires Cleaner Wax works well. If the rust is heavy use a Medium Cut Polishing Compound, then the wax. It protects and also makes the table slick.
you can scrape a lot of rust dust off with a razor blade, you use to remove paint off glass no sludge or nasty slurry just rust dust
My recent move from Colorado to Florida taught me about the need for rust mitigation very quickly. After using the WD40 and green scotch brite pad method to remove the rust. I then turned to the local boaters for suggestions about long term care. West Marine Corrosion Block is the trick. I have been using it for a year now and everything still looks great.
Been using Johnsons paste wax for years now, just wipe on a thin coat and leave it.
One winter the temperature jumped up from freezing to 60 degrees F and all my cast iron tops were sweating. That time I used Boeshield T-9 and let it dry. Saved everythibng from even the slightest rust.
A couple years ago I was restoring a bunch of old planes. I bought a couple gallons of Evapo-Rust and put the plane parts in a bath for a day or two. Then polished off the scale with steel wool or a dremel tool brass brush. Nice look and doesn't remove all the patina.
I've been using paste wax for years, it has served me well.
Whenever I get rust on my 66 year old cast iron table saw top I use WD-40 & a piece of fine grit (300) emery paper. It leaves a fine protection on my saw when I'm done.
I seal my cast iron tables with flore paste wax.
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