Half-lap joints
Cut the T-joint
Set the unmarked edge against the miter-gauge auxiliary fence. Align the pencil marks with the sides of the dado set, and position two handscrew clamps as stops on the auxiliary fence. (If you don't have handscrew clamps, simply clamp two blocks of wood with C- or bar clamps.)
When positioned correctly, the stops will limit the area of removed stock to the space between the pencil marks. You simply butt one end of the stock against one stop and make a cut as shown. Then, butt the other end of the stock against the remaining stop, and make another cut. Finally, remove the material between the two cuts. With the stops set up this way, you can make multiple pieces that will all turn out the same.
To learn more about woodworking joinery, visit the Joinery Section in the WOOD Store.
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I believe mmyjak has a good point. You should us a short stop block against the fence that allows the work piece to clear before the cut begins. Also, the method described by berowen uses much less material.
9/2/2012 07:57:04 AM Report AbuseMiter gauge can be used safely IF the cut is not all the way through the stock.
7/21/2012 05:43:39 PM Report AbuseBerowen, thanks for that tip. That's as easy as it gets.
7/19/2012 10:41:18 PM Report AbuseI don't like to advocate using the Miter Gauge in conjunction with the Rip Fence. Rather then instill a potentially bad habit, its just as easy to use a gauge block clamped to the rip fence.
5/4/2012 08:33:23 AM Report AbuseAlternative method for setting depth is to use a scrap piece that is the same thickness as your project wood. Raise your blade to just under 1/2 the stock thickness (eyeballing will do). Make a test cut, flip the piece, make another cut. Bump up the blade height again and repeat the two cuts until the left over sliver of wood just disappears. You should now have a perfectly set blade height.
5/3/2012 10:34:22 AM Report Abuse