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Half-lap joints

Step 3: Cut the joint

Step 3: Cut the joint

Mark the face sides of your workpieces so you don't get them confused. Keep in mind that you need to place the face side of one piece up, and the face side of the adjoining piece down, during this step.

Set your miter gauge for a square cut, and attach an auxiliary wooden fence to it. The auxiliary fence should come to within 1/2" of butting against the rip fence.

Now, position the workpiece with an edge against the auxiliary fence and an end butted against the rip fence. Turn on the saw, hold the workpiece firmly against the auxiliary fence, and pass the workpiece over the dado set. Make successive passes to complete the half-lap cut.


Continued on page 5:  Step 4: Clamping comes next

 

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Comments (5)
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blurover wrote:

I believe mmyjak has a good point. You should us a short stop block against the fence that allows the work piece to clear before the cut begins. Also, the method described by berowen uses much less material.

9/2/2012 07:57:04 AM Report Abuse
wdworker509644 wrote:

Miter gauge can be used safely IF the cut is not all the way through the stock.

7/21/2012 05:43:39 PM Report Abuse
kerrygmo wrote:

Berowen, thanks for that tip. That's as easy as it gets.

7/19/2012 10:41:18 PM Report Abuse
mmyjak wrote:

I don't like to advocate using the Miter Gauge in conjunction with the Rip Fence. Rather then instill a potentially bad habit, its just as easy to use a gauge block clamped to the rip fence.

5/4/2012 08:33:23 AM Report Abuse
berowen wrote:

Alternative method for setting depth is to use a scrap piece that is the same thickness as your project wood. Raise your blade to just under 1/2 the stock thickness (eyeballing will do). Make a test cut, flip the piece, make another cut. Bump up the blade height again and repeat the two cuts until the left over sliver of wood just disappears. You should now have a perfectly set blade height.

5/3/2012 10:34:22 AM Report Abuse

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