Half-lap joints
Pages in this Story:
- • Before you make this cut
- • Four easy steps to lap-joint sucess
- • Step 2: Test cutting depth
- • Step 3: Cut the joint
- • Step 4: Clamping comes next
- • Making a half-lap T-join
- • Cut the T-joint
Step 2: Test cutting depth
Step 2: Test cutting depth
Set the cutting depth of the dado set so it removes precisely one-half of the workpiece thickness. Test your cutting depth with two pieces of scrap stock of the same thickness as your workpieces. After cutting the scrap pieces, lay them on a flat surface and align them as shown. The top and bottom faces should be flush.
Comments (5)
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I believe mmyjak has a good point. You should us a short stop block against the fence that allows the work piece to clear before the cut begins. Also, the method described by berowen uses much less material.
9/2/2012 07:57:04 AM Report AbuseMiter gauge can be used safely IF the cut is not all the way through the stock.
7/21/2012 05:43:39 PM Report AbuseBerowen, thanks for that tip. That's as easy as it gets.
7/19/2012 10:41:18 PM Report AbuseI don't like to advocate using the Miter Gauge in conjunction with the Rip Fence. Rather then instill a potentially bad habit, its just as easy to use a gauge block clamped to the rip fence.
5/4/2012 08:33:23 AM Report AbuseAlternative method for setting depth is to use a scrap piece that is the same thickness as your project wood. Raise your blade to just under 1/2 the stock thickness (eyeballing will do). Make a test cut, flip the piece, make another cut. Bump up the blade height again and repeat the two cuts until the left over sliver of wood just disappears. You should now have a perfectly set blade height.
5/3/2012 10:34:22 AM Report Abuse