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8 ways to make end-to-end joints that hold

Bevel-cut scarf joints
Saw blade at an angle
Enlarge Image
 
Cut crown-molding ends on
opposite sides of the blade
for a tight end-to-end joint.

Bevel-cut scarf joints

By cutting ends at an angle before joining them, you expose more long grain for a better bond. The sharper the angle, the larger and better the gluing surface. For example, a 45° bevel increases the gluing surface by about 40 percent and helps conceal the joint line on a profiled surface. To match the angles, cut one end on one side of the saw blade and the mating end on the opposite side, as shown at right. Even if your blade bevel angle varies slightly from 45°, the pieces will mate.

To join the halves, clamp the lower one against a flat surface. Then clamp the upper piece down and against the bevel on the lower piece. Align the pieces with a straightedge, if necessary.


Continued on page 7:  Miter-cut scarf joints

 

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Comments (8)
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Basil_Wood wrote:

This exact article appeared Jully 19, 2014. Recycling? No. Excellent for those who might have missed it earlier. We'll probably see it again in 2016 :)

4/16/2015 07:25:34 PM Report Abuse
urband9 wrote:

I have used finger joints to extend the length of a board. The problem is that the screws go into end grain and don't hold very well. Even with glue it was not a tight joint.

4/16/2015 01:34:53 PM Report Abuse
daoates wrote:

curiously he only mentions finger joints in passing. He provides some detail for 8 other ways to end join wood. I saw an old barn years ago on a family homestead(for real) that was hand cut in a floor beam that was a dazzler. can't describe other than it was keyed so once the key was pushed in the joint was tight and required no other fasteners. The endless variety of techniques is why this makes such a great hobby or vocation. One never runs out of things to try.

4/16/2015 12:41:52 PM Report Abuse
PePaw wrote:

The only way I'm aware to make them is with a router bit. Same for dowels. Dowell jigs are abundant. I have the first I used that was made by a Master Tool & Die maker for my Dad at least 65 years ago. I have several more "fool proof" ones but still avoid dowels when ever I can as I still can't seem to get satisfactory alignment. Commercial finger joints I see are usually in molding stock and finished door and frame units.

4/16/2015 12:29:19 PM Report Abuse
rtjurgens wrote:

Thank you rbtpartman. I agree with your comment. Part of what makes a good woodworker (also true of any other trade) is to be creative and resourceful. To insist that someone provide EVERYTHING every time someone writes something is rather ludicrous.

4/16/2015 10:11:18 AM Report Abuse
rbtpartsman wrote:

And you really can't just search Wood Magazine's excellent online site to find articles on Finger joints ? We are woodworkers after all. We don't have to have every little skill in a "link". Very easy to find out simple finger joint instructions online, in past magazines, from a friend.... Simply not fair to call the suggestion basically worthless because they don't put a link in the article.

4/16/2015 10:02:17 AM Report Abuse
rruchti4390 wrote:

Your information on finger joints is not worth a pinch of salt if you don't explain how to make them, or at least a link to that information

11/20/2014 10:15:58 AM Report Abuse

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