Add easy elegance to your furniture projects.
Don't get bent out of shape over an out-of-square drawer. You've got one last shot at achieving a first-rate fit.
House your dado blade in an auxiliary fence, and cut multiple-width rabbets without changing the blade.
Splines and bowtie reinforce and add elegance to a joint while assisting with alignment during assembly. Here?s how to add both elements.
Cutting dovetails the old-fashioned way is more than a link to the past. Such well-made joints add a one-of-a-kind handcrafted appearance to your work. With practice and patience, you can master the satisfying skill of hand-cutting dovetails. We'll show you how.
As its name implies, this joint features a tenon that goes through the mortised workpiece, with the end of the tenon protruding slightly. If you're up for the challenge of making this joint, here's how.
Much easier to make than mortise-and-tenon joints, and a lot stronger than biscuits, trusty old dowels still deserve a place in your joinery arsenal.
Forget the old "board-stretcher." When you need longer stock, the right end-to-end joint can solve your problems as easy as 1+1. Check out these eight solutions.
Here's a quick way to joint boards that are a little to wide that requires only a strip of scrap plywood and your planer.
By using a basic dovetail jig on a router table--rather than with a handheld router--you can turn out four perfect-fitting joints in about 12 minutes.
Tabletops and other wide panels look great and resist cupping when you outfit them with breadboard ends.
Whether you own a pocket-hole jig or are considering buying one, these shop-won insights will help you get more from your jig.
To make the best use of rabbets, you need to know the various ways to cut them, when to use each method, and how to make the cuts effectively.
Unless you're making many multiples of project parts, it almost always takes longer to set up for a cut than it does to actually rout the workpiece.
Your shop tells the world you're a woodworker. Use it to make the rest of your home say the same thing.
Joinery makes or breaks a project. That's why woodworkers decide on the joints they'll use early on in the planning stages. Here's a sampling of popular joints, some simple, some more difficult.
Biscuit joints are simple to cut, but difficult to fix when done wrong. Here's how to avoid the most common mistakes.
Cope-and-stick joinery produces great-looking frames for cabinet doors, but you need specialized router bits or shaper cutters to do the job the traditional way.
If your circular saw leaves the shelf only to trim deck boards or knock down sheets of plywood to rough size, you're underutilizing it. You can also use it as a joinery tool for parts too unwieldy to dado on a tablesaw.
Plywood and melamine-coated particleboard have plenty of advantages over solid stock, but you do need to cover their unsightly edges.
Make them as simple or fancy as you like. Frame-and-panel construction can be used from everything from cabinet doors to furniture pieces and built-ins.
Simple dovetail jigs, such as the one shown here, help you make tight-fitting half-blind dovetails quickly and easily.
Sure, you can find woodworking joints more beautiful than the half-lap. And, one or two joints might be stronger. But few woodworking joints match the half-lap for all-around usefulness and ease of construction.
You can go a long way with the basic mortise-and-tenon joint, but sometimes a variation comes in handy.
Get a grip-instead of using pushlocks with jointers and shapers, try something with a little more grasp.
Although you can build drawer joints using any number of methods, we think lock-rabbet joints like the ones you'll find in this story make sense for attaching the sides, fronts, and backs of most drawers.
Before the advent of cardboard boxes, manufacturers joined the sides of thin wooden boxes with these joints because they were strong and fast to make. Today, box joints have taken on practical and decorative roles in projects ranging from jewelry cases to hope chests.
Eliminate the guesswork when it comes to figuring out where the biscuit slot should go. Follow these simple steps and you'll avoid making careless mistakes.
Use this handy, easy technique to see if your disc-sander table adjustments are squared. It's a quick way to make your disc-sanding superior.
Eliminate the trial and error of spacing biscuits in narrow rails. This jig lets you quickly determine the right size and number of biscuits for each joint.
Concealing a tabletop's end grain using breadboard ends can be tricky. We show you how to make it work.
We all strive for clean and accurate tablesaw cuts. In chasing perfection, though, we often spend much more time setting up a cut than actually making it. Here's how to safely get great crosscuts in less time.
Staved or segmented construction figures in a lot of projects, from ornamental bowl turnings to porch pillars. A question we often hear is: What miter angle (or bevel) do I need? Another recurring question is: How long (or wide) should I make the pieces? Finding those answers is relatively easy. Here's how to do the math.
To turn a wobbly chair into a sturdy one, first you have to disassemble it. Use these methods to conquer dowels that don't want to budge.