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Crown Molding Miters

Cutting miters in crown molding can get tricky due to the compound angles involved. Here are three methods to make it a breeze.

Q: In a crown-molding shelf project in a recent woodworking magazine, the instructions call for mitering the ends of the crown molding but don't say how. Wouldn't this kind of operation involve compound angles?

Bill Beaton, Gibons, B.C.

A: Yes, mitering crown molding does require cutting compound angles, Bill, but you don't need a compound mitersaw to do it.

If you have a standard mitersaw, cut the molding "upside down," as shown at right. The jig makes this task easier by preventing the molding from slipping as you cut. It consists of a couple of hardboard scraps and solid wood cleats adhered to the saw with double-faced tape. Using this setup, you can cut your molding to length, relying on the saw's built-in 45° and 90° stops.

If you have a compound mitersaw, lay the molding flat on the table. Set the miter angle at 31.62° — a positive stop on many compound mitersaws— and the bevel angle at 33.86° (34° is close enough).

You can accomplish these cuts at the tablesaw, too. But you'll need to make test cuts in scrap to get the angles just right.

The WOOD® magazine editors

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Comments (4)
darkangel269a1 wrote:

if you also mark on your fence where the crown stops, you can cut a small scrap at that measurement to use as a jig when you prepare to install. use that piece of scrap to mark all the corners, centers, and any places where you may have a joint by pushing the scrap to the ceiling then tracing the bottom. that mark will be exactly where your crown needs to be to get your miters perfect.

12/9/2011 03:12:31 AM Report Abuse
darkangel269a1 wrote:

lol@whwoodworking. though my dewalt 12 inch miter saw has compound, I have only used the method above. it is fast and accurate. I never used a jig though, if the fence on your miter saw is 6 inches (kinda rare) you really dont need one. set your crown upside-down on the saw and hold it so the flats that would sit on the wall and ceiling are flush on the base and fence on your saw.

12/9/2011 03:12:08 AM Report Abuse
whwoodworking wrote:

Oops, sorry, didn't read the whole thing. That's covered. :-/

12/8/2011 08:55:43 PM Report Abuse
whwoodworking wrote:

Look up the "upside down and backwards" technique. Uses only the 45 degree setting. Much easier than the above.

12/8/2011 08:53:52 PM Report Abuse

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