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Intermediate Techniques

Making the Most of Your Mortiser

Of all the cuts made with your mortiser, the first plunge into the workpiece takes the most force. Here's a tip on easing the load and prolonging the life of the machine.


sparewear

wooden legs

You don't have to buy special stock to get the right grain orientation. Most boards display rift grain at the edges and plain grain in the middle.



pockethole

Take the hassle out of angled mounting holes with our simple drilling accessory.



dustcollection

To aid in the response to questions from the Dust Collection and Air Filtration discussion group, we've created this informational section.



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Is it finally time to tackle the dust problem in your shop? Don't gamble by guessing on duct sizes and airflow. These basic calculations will tell you what flow capacity you need, what size ductwork that calls for, and how much static pressure loss your dust collector must overcome to work effectively.



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Learn a new way to make beautiful raised panel doors. We'll show you the best tips, techniques, and tools to make doors quickly and easily without expensive panel-raising bits.



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Perhaps no other joint has more strength or better looks than a corner joined by through dovetails. But here's a much simpler joinery process that comes pretty close.



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Plywood and melamine-coated particleboard have plenty of advantages over solid stock, but you do need to cover their unsightly edges.



Dovetails

Simple dovetail jigs, such as the one shown here, help you make tight-fitting half-blind dovetails quickly and easily.



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Can't afford a jointer yet? Here's one great alternative.



lock-rabbet joints

Although you can build drawer joints using any number of methods, we think lock-rabbet joints like the ones you'll find in this story make sense for attaching the sides, fronts, and backs of most drawers.



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Before the advent of cardboard boxes, manufacturers joined the sides of thin wooden boxes with these joints because they were strong and fast to make. Today, box joints have taken on practical and decorative roles in projects ranging from jewelry cases to hope chests.



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A no-nonsense alternative to jigs and machines.



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Staved or segmented construction figures in a lot of projects, from ornamental bowl turnings to porch pillars. A question we often hear is: What miter angle (or bevel) do I need? Another recurring question is: How long (or wide) should I make the pieces? Finding those answers is relatively easy. Here's how to do the math.



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We shed some light on how to use these tricky bits.



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Shortly after assuming his duties as our new project builder, Chuck Hedlund made it a priority to flatten the benchtops in the WOOD® magazine shop.



Bird's mouth bits

Making cones, columns, or cylinders is a barrel of fun and requires little monkeying around when you chuck one of these unique cutters in your router.



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Think outside the box joint



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Every between-centers lathe project you do begins with using a gouge. Done incorrectly, it can be dangerous. Here's how to do it right and safely.



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Use a basic router bit in a new way to dress up those frame-and-panel doors.



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Follow our seven-step process for creating even reveals when hanging flush-mounted cabinet doors.



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Plagued by cracks in a piece of old furniture? Unless it's a museum piece, this simple repair might fill the bill.



How to edge joint

Faced with a seriously bowed workpiece? The tricks you learn here will straighten things out.



509

How do you section and cut your way from an irregular-shaped hunk of wood to stock you can actually use to make something with?



Intarsia tips and tricks

Five surefire pointers from the team that reinvented intarsia in North America!



Onlay accents made easy 3

Learn to create distinctive raised accents with this mini-technique.



Put a bead in any board 1

Here's a simple way to create a beaded board look without beading a solid-wood panel with a router.



grooverabbets

Here's an easy way to form stopped grooves or rabbets.



bistro server

The server base (parts A through F) is assembled and ready for the addition of the rail caps (G, H).



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