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Finishing oak with finesse

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Finishing oak with finesse

Finishing oak with finesse

The following slides show the look of red oak with various finishes. Because of oak's cellular structure, the pigments in oil-based stains collect more in the wood's open grain areas, while the smoother, denser, surrounding areas retain less. This can result in strong light/dark contrasts. A 180-grit final sanding may neutralize this contrast. In addition, you may find that oak has small regions of fibers with a lot of cellulose (technically called tension wood) that absorb stain better than the other areas. Though subtle compared with pine, this uneven absorption can give oak a blotchy appearance. If it occurs on a stained and finished test piece, try sealing the next test piece prior to staining, using a conditioner, sanding sealer, or wash coat. You also can add stain pigments to the clear finish to reduce blotching.

Complete Guide to Finishing

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Comments (3)
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pommjohn wrote:

I use a Rustins. look it up

5/1/2014 04:00:05 PM Report Abuse
tommandkay wrote:

I'm not sure why a person would want to stain red oak with Walnut stain. I usually use an oil based red oak stain followed by several light coats of oil based poly.

5/1/2014 03:17:25 PM Report Abuse
roses MI wrote:

I have been working with oak for 20 years and have never put any stain or dye on it. Why do it when the color and grain patterns are excellent left alone.? I use only lacquer as a finish. Medium Rubbed (SW) or Simi gloss (PPG) sprayed outdoors. The project is them wheeled indoors to dry. I find PPG sanding sealer to be the best by far. Expensive yes, but consider all the time you spent building the project. Expect to pay about $125.00 for the sealer, top coat and thinner.

11/7/2013 01:49:08 PM Report Abuse

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