Scary sharp tools, without the aching arms

How it works

You sharpen tools from three locations on the tool:

 

1. Top of the glass disc: used for flattening the backs of chisels and plane irons, and the bevel of cutters more than 2" wide. I think the top tool rest is this tool's weakest link right now, but the manufacturer says tool-holding jigs will be coming in the future.

2. Bottom of a glass disc: for sharpening the bevel of chisels and plane irons 2"-wide or less. Here is where Work Sharp really shines. The tilting tool rest locks at 5° increments from 20° to 35° to cover the most common tool bevel angles. A lip on the edge of the rest keeps the tool square when sharpening. When I started in on some of my chisels, I was surprised how far out of square they had become from hand sharpening. Using the 120-grit abrasive I shaped them by "stabbing" the chisel gently into the underside of the turning disc. The face of the tool rest is covered with a fine-grit abrasive, so every time I pulled the tool edge away from the disc, it automatically removed the burr. Very cool. And only a little bit warm. The tool rest also has an aluminum heat sink to draw away what little heat is created by the slow-speed discs. Only my 1/4 and 1/8" chisels discolored when grinding aggressively, and wider cutters got only warm to the touch.

3. Bottom of the slotted disc: for lathe and carving tools. The lathe/carving tool system also comes with Work Sharp. It uses a slotted plastic wheel with slotted adhesive-backed discs as well for sharpening. As the wheel spins, the slots make it almost transparent (see photo, above right), so you see through the abrasive while you sharpen with it. The 80 grit slotted disc quickly sharpens any lathe tool and gets you back to the lathe fast. I used this for touch-ups of all my lathe tools, and for sharpening most. (I would still use a grinder with a tool rest for setting up the angles on a gouge.)

Click here to watch the Work Sharp demo in WOOD magazine shop