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Tablesaw Miter Jig

Are you ready for on-the-money miters? Here's the solution.

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Comments (15)

Setting up perfect miter cuts can be time-consuming. With a miter sled, you do it only once, when building the sled.

Cut the pieces for the miter sled to the dimensions shown in Drawing 1. After attaching the miter-slot guides (adjust width for your saw table), put the jig on the tablesaw and cut a kerf 7 1/2" into the base. Then follow the steps in Drawing 2, and use double-faced tape to temporarily attach the fences.

Test your setup by miter-cutting four pieces to identical length and dry-fitting them together as a frame. Check for a tight joint at all four corners. If needed, adjust the fences. Then screw them down in their final positions.

-- WOOD� magazine shop

PDF of Drawing 1

PDF of Drawing 2

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Comments (15)

wlp466 wrote:

I added a stop block (movable) on each side to get repeated cuts the same size.

6/18/2012 05:38:55 AM Report Abuse

mkhyman wrote:

I am new to woodworking and in the process of making this. It looks like the fences are 1" thick--held by #8 X 1" FH Screws???

6/16/2012 03:27:57 PM Report Abuse

tuckersofswhouston wrote:

2 framing squares exactly the same & both not square. Try using a engineer square off the blade.

12/5/2011 11:19:24 PM Report Abuse

gadjet wrote:

Third make yourself a very good and accurate 45 degree angle on a disc sander, in this case the slower the disc the better, hand turning speed is the best, always sand into the finish of the piece, to prevent chip out, and one final hint, get yourself some stain markers to match the finish of the wood, or even a black marker or your kids coloring markers and run a line on along the top of the joint on both pieces this hides bare wood sometimes visible in joint.

11/11/2010 11:31:30 AM Report Abuse

gadjet wrote:

In regards to picture frames and 45 angles, I would suggest, to start install a blade tensioner, round metal disk(s), this has the effect of decreasing blade "wobble", second this jig can be made to have one off the legs adjustable for minor adjustments, hinge the top end with a through bolt and the bottom, or leg closest to you with a elongated hole and a tension knob nut on top.

11/11/2010 11:31:12 AM Report Abuse

whelan353 wrote:

The beauty of the miter jig is that the 45 degree angle does not have to be perfect, only the 90 degree.

11/11/2010 11:14:16 AM Report Abuse

daveowen1 wrote:

The basic design for this jig is excellent. I built one when the plan was first published, with a couple of modifications (moveable stops for cutting wooden 'quilt' patterns, a Plexiglas guard, and a 'safety block' for the blade). Despite having only a single miter slot on my Jet Supersaw, the cuts are incredibly accurate.

11/11/2010 10:06:04 AM Report Abuse

rdennison3909140 wrote:

Miter sled "not quite right" ? I like 45.000001 too, but .... Solution: Cut one miter surface on the right side of the Miter jig and the mating miter on the left side. Set the arms with a Draftsman's perfect 45 degree to establish the arms to your blade. Bones1

5/7/2010 07:57:48 PM Report Abuse

wivers wrote:

I am thinking of buying a Bosch 4100-09 table top saw due to space restrictions. Does anyone have an opinion about using a sled like this one on that saw? Wayne

5/6/2010 02:57:08 PM Report Abuse

plusaf wrote:

as of 03.25.2010, the last two pictures are labeled "3". rename the last one to 4 before saving... :)

3/25/2010 10:14:37 PM Report Abuse

Jeanne888 wrote:

How about using a drafting T-square for an accurate 90-degree measurement?

3/19/2010 08:36:37 AM Report Abuse

gguess2285978 wrote:

The big problem is that I have never found a square framing "square". The trick of using a punch in the corner will not correct (or even move) a steel square.

3/14/2010 03:27:33 PM Report Abuse

Candaball wrote:

I have some picture frames to build for the new grandbaby, and this will without doubt make the miters truer and easier to mill, thanks for making it available

3/11/2010 01:42:39 PM Report Abuse

treasurebox1 wrote:

for safety add some filler stock to the backside of the fences. keeps thumbs away from the blade and reenforces the fences. I user some scrap 2x4 to make mine.

1/28/2010 04:56:55 PM Report Abuse

vb1942 wrote:

I built one for each of my saws. Works great.

12/10/2009 05:05:46 PM Report Abuse