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Tablesaw Miter Jig

Are you ready for on-the-money miters? Here's the solution.


To build this jig, first place one miter-slot guide into each slot on your saw table. Align the 1/2" plywood base on top of the guide, long edges perpendicular to the miter slots. With the plywood resting on the tablesaw surface, drill 5/32" shank holes through the plywood and into the guides just far enough to mark their positions. Remove the plywood and guides and drill 7/64" pilot holes through the guides. Reposition these pieces on the tablesaw, and attach the guides with countersunk #8x1" brass wood screws. Drive the screws about halfway through the guides, and lift the assembly off the table. Drive the screws completely, and sand off their protruding tips. Again, place the jig onto the tablesaw surface, turn on the saw, and cut a kerf about halfway across the width of the plywood.

The key to this jig's accuracy is installing the miter fences precisely at 90°. The drawings below take you through the first two alignment steps. Use this process to temporarily attach each fence with two #8x1" screws. Test the fences for accuracy by cutting four sample pieces, each about 1" wide and 4" long. Hold them together with a rubberband and check for any gaps at the miters. Adjust the position of the fences as necessary by tapping them with a hammer. Once you're satisfied that the fences are in exactly the right positions, attach each of them with two #8x1" screws. Finally, to help hold your workpieces steady against the fences during cuts, attach adhesive-backed 100-grit sandpaper to the fence faces where shown in the photo above.


tablesaw miter jig

tablesaw miter jig

If you like this project, please check out the hundreds of shop-proven paper and downloadable woodworking project plans in the WOOD Store.


 



Comments (13)
4197972656
tuckersofswhouston wrote:

2 framing squares exactly the same & both not square. Try using a engineer square off the blade.

12/5/2011 11:19:24 PM Report Abuse
gadjet wrote:

Third make yourself a very good and accurate 45 degree angle on a disc sander, in this case the slower the disc the better, hand turning speed is the best, always sand into the finish of the piece, to prevent chip out, and one final hint, get yourself some stain markers to match the finish of the wood, or even a black marker or your kids coloring markers and run a line on along the top of the joint on both pieces this hides bare wood sometimes visible in joint.

11/11/2010 11:31:30 AM Report Abuse
gadjet wrote:

In regards to picture frames and 45 angles, I would suggest, to start install a blade tensioner, round metal disk(s), this has the effect of decreasing blade "wobble", second this jig can be made to have one off the legs adjustable for minor adjustments, hinge the top end with a through bolt and the bottom, or leg closest to you with a elongated hole and a tension knob nut on top.

11/11/2010 11:31:12 AM Report Abuse
whelan353 wrote:

The beauty of the miter jig is that the 45 degree angle does not have to be perfect, only the 90 degree.

11/11/2010 11:14:16 AM Report Abuse
daveowen1 wrote:

The basic design for this jig is excellent. I built one when the plan was first published, with a couple of modifications (moveable stops for cutting wooden 'quilt' patterns, a Plexiglas guard, and a 'safety block' for the blade). Despite having only a single miter slot on my Jet Supersaw, the cuts are incredibly accurate.

11/11/2010 10:06:04 AM Report Abuse
rdennison3909140 wrote:

Miter sled "not quite right" ? I like 45.000001 too, but .... Solution: Cut one miter surface on the right side of the Miter jig and the mating miter on the left side. Set the arms with a Draftsman's perfect 45 degree to establish the arms to your blade. Bones1

5/7/2010 07:57:48 PM Report Abuse
wivers wrote:

I am thinking of buying a Bosch 4100-09 table top saw due to space restrictions. Does anyone have an opinion about using a sled like this one on that saw? Wayne

5/6/2010 02:57:08 PM Report Abuse
plusaf wrote:

as of 03.25.2010, the last two pictures are labeled "3". rename the last one to 4 before saving... :)

3/25/2010 10:14:37 PM Report Abuse
Jeanne888 wrote:

How about using a drafting T-square for an accurate 90-degree measurement?

3/19/2010 08:36:37 AM Report Abuse
gguess2285978 wrote:

The big problem is that I have never found a square framing "square". The trick of using a punch in the corner will not correct (or even move) a steel square.

3/14/2010 03:27:33 PM Report Abuse
Candaball wrote:

I have some picture frames to build for the new grandbaby, and this will without doubt make the miters truer and easier to mill, thanks for making it available

3/11/2010 01:42:39 PM Report Abuse
treasurebox1 wrote:

for safety add some filler stock to the backside of the fences. keeps thumbs away from the blade and reenforces the fences. I user some scrap 2x4 to make mine.

1/28/2010 04:56:55 PM Report Abuse
vb1942 wrote:

I built one for each of my saws. Works great.

12/10/2009 05:05:46 PM Report Abuse

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