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Drawer-Lock Bit

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Side Work

Side Work

Now, it's time for a little action on the sides

1) Without changing the cutting height of the bit, move the fence so that it's flush with the lower cutting surface of the drawer-lock bit. We like to rotate the bit so the cutting edge is forward, then lay a straightedge against it for reference, as shown below.


2) To prevent tear-out, make a pushblock from scrap and an extra piece of drawer-side stock (or scrap of the same thickness), as shown below. Make certain that the two pieces forms a 90 angle, and that the screws are high enough to clear the cutting path of the bit.


3) Cut the drawer sides to size. Stand the drawer side on end, placing the inside face against the fence. Use the pushblock, as shown below, to guide the drawer side through the bit.


Comments (6)
dickpatt wrote:

The problem is with the above table dimension given in the article of 15/32" table to top of top cutter. I struggled and ground up scrap wood for nearly an hour and a half and finally decided to quit trying to use that dimension and creep up on the right size that made it fit. Changing that 15/32" to 19/32" made the Diablo bit work perfectly for me. Hope this saves some gray hair for someone!

11/27/2015 05:13:04 PM Report Abuse
sdwbuildgmail wrote:

jnjgardnergmai are you still having trouble setting up your drawer lock bit? I can talk you through a very simple setup routine. I'm sorry but this article is a bit (pun intended) off. Let me know.

9/27/2015 12:40:08 PM Report Abuse
jnjgardnergmai wrote:

using this method The tendon on the side piece is to large to fit into the front recess. I am using a 2" Freud bit no.99-240 which appears to be the same as that used in the demo. Can someone help.

6/15/2015 06:14:10 PM Report Abuse
Drachengeist wrote:

Adjusting the fence between the upper and lower edges of the bit on different pieces is what lets you make perfectly mating tongue and groove cuts for this joint. You could probably move your hand over to hold the piece as necessary. But with the left hand pressing in on the jig and the right hand pushing, the workpiece is trapped on 3 sides. It would have to shift forward against the bit to move out of place.

3/5/2015 12:07:46 PM Report Abuse
bobg63 wrote:

How is it that in one part of this article they are telling you to have the fence back so far from the top part of the bit and lower in the same article they are telling you to have the fence back so far from the lower part of the bit; which are different distances from the fence??

2/3/2011 11:33:04 PM Report Abuse
gtidings1 wrote:

I appreciate the paper copy of the magazine and the cascading online flow of tips and techniques. In the last photo of the drawer bit instructions under router techniques, there are two hands but neither is holding the work piece. This looks impractical, what am I missing? Thanks.

11/19/2009 08:56:58 AM Report Abuse

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