Full-service router-bit cabinet
This accommodating shop cabinet can be hung in either of two ways. You can employ the beveled cleat approach used in Idea Shop 5 for maximum flexibility, or omit the cleat and screw it to any shop wall. Case and door joinery consists of simple dadoes, rabbets, and grooves that you can cut on your tablesaw or table-mounted router. A handy drawer-lock router bit speeds the drawer construction.
Start with the case
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Glue and clamp the case together. Then drill angled countersunk screw holes through the top and bottom (B), and into the sides (A). Drive #8x1/2" flathead wood screws.
1. Cut the sides (A), top and bottom (B), and the shelf (C) to the sizes listed in the Materials List. Cut 3/4" rabbets 3/8" deep in the sides (A), where shown on Drawing 1. To prevent chipout, back your cuts with an auxiliary extension attached to your miter gauge. Then, using your rip fence as a stop, cut the 3/8"-deep dadoes, where dimensioned. Cut 1/4" grooves 3/8" deep in the sides, top, and bottom for the back (D). When cutting the grooves in the sides, make sure you have mirror-image parts. Finish-sand the parts.
2. From 1/2" medium-density overlay plywood (MDO), cut the back (D) to size. Form a 3/8" tongue around the back?s perimeter by cutting 3/8" rabbets 1/4" deep along its back edges, where shown on Drawing 1. Finish-sand the back.
3. Apply glue to the grooves, dadoes, and rabbets, and assemble the case, as shown in Photo A. Check to make sure the case is square and flat.
4. For those adding this cabinet to the Idea Shop 5 wall-storage system, cut the cleat (E) and spacer (F) to size. Bevel the cleat, where shown on Drawing 1a. Clamp the cleat and spacer to the case, where shown on Drawing 1, drill countersunk screw holes, and screw the parts to the case.
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