Dead-blow mallet
Whether coaxing together the closely fitted dovetails of a drawer, finger joints of a box, or mortise-and-tenon joints of a cabinet door, you'll appreciate the concentrated no-rebound striking power of this handsome mallet.
- • Why you need a dead-blow mallet
- • Make a laminated handle
- • Begin routing with a starter pin
- • Form the head parts
- • Assemble and apply finish
- • Foam pads ensure a good bond on slightly curved surfaces
- • Choosing wood for your mallet
Why you need a dead-blow mallet
The head of this mallet contains loose lead shot for controlled impact without bounce-back. As the mallet strikes the work surface, the shot moves forward immediately behind the blow to dampen the rebound and solidly transmit the force. It's the ideal tool for assembling two tightly fitting workpieces. And because it puts more weight behind a short swing, a dead-blow mallet works great in close quarters.
Filled with about 5 ounces of loose lead shot and faced with thick leather pads, it packs a wallop without leaving a mark. You can make the mallet from shop scraps, or see Sources, on the Bill of Material, for the necessary supplies
As a convenience to allow you to view this free woodworking plan before downloading it, we offer a page-by-page review. If you like the plan, you'll find a Free Downloadable Plan link on the last page of the plan. The downloadable plan will have larger, easier to view illustrations than the online preview. Thanks for viewing, and enjoy the build.
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I have just renewed my supcription. Do I get the same befits as listed above?
9/30/2012 02:29:29 PM Report Abuse