Follow us on Pinterest
Welcome, Guest! Log In  |  Join Now

Easy-Lock Feather Board

Pages in this Story:
Using the feather board

Using the feather board

With the saw off, slide the workpiece between the feather board and fence. Position the trailing edge of the feather board about 1" in front of the leading edge of the saw blade, where shown in the photos on the previous page. Put too close to the blade, the feather board can pinch the kerf and cause the workpiece to bind on the blade.

Position the shorter leading finger against the piece to be ripped. The piece should slide smoothly, yet be held firmly against the rip fence. If pushing the workpiece between the feather board and rip fence offers too much resistance, back part B off slightly. Once properly positioned, tighten the 4-arm knob to secure the assembly in place.

Project design: Vernon Lee; Scott Spierling


Comments (14)
cookevilleracew wrote:

What type of wood are most of you using?

3/24/2016 04:54:24 PM Report Abuse
JeremyButl98873 wrote:

Plow Bolts It is a combination of carriage bolt and a countersunk.

4/11/2015 02:00:35 AM Report Abuse
cook6265 wrote:

How about nicely designed jig fellas. Or I can build off this to fit my needs or equipment.

4/18/2013 11:31:03 AM Report Abuse
ghamann7810 wrote:

I solved gihall3278786,s problem by cutting a slot down the the center of the feather then moving the hold down over the slot. Using a lock down t-bolt and 4-star knob in the miter-slot gives a much safer set-up. Jerry H.

12/30/2011 06:07:33 PM Report Abuse
J.R. Sloan wrote:

AlWhee's right: use expansion lock in slot: I split a hardwood spline, glued half to bottom w/tapered bolt to widen spline when locking it. Use pushstick next to the fence so cutoff will fall away from the blade. Featherboard allows operator to push workpiece past the cutting edges w/push stick. A good pushstick could be 24"x 8" of 1/4" plywood with notch at rear & applies even pressure the whole length of the workpiece. This keeps operator's fingers both above and away from the sawblade.

12/24/2011 01:44:26 PM Report Abuse
Alwhee wrote:

I use the feather board to hold work against the fence not as a kick back. I did change the bolt and use a miter slot hardware kit form Rockler item # 26993 WORKS FOR ME Alan

11/24/2011 08:55:55 AM Report Abuse
dnaderhold wrote:

Too bad this design only works on saws with a T-slot for the miter gauge.

11/23/2011 11:53:37 AM Report Abuse
sanerreg wrote:

Agree w/ bardk. The feather board belongs on the other side of the fence. (Reggie)

11/23/2011 11:39:04 AM Report Abuse
lh443 wrote:

I would use a t-slot or toilet flange bolt instead

11/23/2011 11:21:35 AM Report Abuse
gntdavis4020767 wrote:

This drawing shows a "T" slot in the table saw.

11/23/2011 09:48:24 AM Report Abuse
rayn3668258 wrote:

I have the same problem as bardk Rayn

11/23/2011 09:45:28 AM Report Abuse
bardk wrote:

Problem is, that's not the board that kicks back on me; it's the one jammed between the blade and the fence!

11/23/2011 09:34:35 AM Report Abuse
Rich J. wrote:

You could possibly install a square shoulder bolt. Also known as an elevator bolt. That will squeeze in the bottom of the handle and secure it in place.

11/23/2011 08:11:35 AM Report Abuse
gjhall3286786 wrote:

Problem is that the bolt turns as you attempt to tighten with the 4-arm knob, and the feather board does not become tight to the table. How is this rectified? Gordon

11/20/2011 05:13:44 PM Report Abuse

Add your comment

You must be logged in to leave a comment. Register | Log In

Please confirm your comment by answering the question below and clicking "Submit Comment."


Connect With Us
  • Recent Posts
  • Top Posts
See More >