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Easy-Lock Feather Board

Guarantee perfect rip cuts with this quick-to-set tablesaw helper.

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Creating the feather board

Creating the feather board

When ripping stock on your tablesaw, keep it firmly and safely against the fence with this handy adjustable locking feather board. Not only does it prevent wavy cuts, it guards against dangerous kickback. To build one, use the drawing at right and patterns on the next web page to cut handle (A) and feather board (B) to size and shape, noting the location of the angled notch and counterbored hole in the handle. Use a bandsaw to cut the 2 1/2"-long kerfs in the feather board and the curved portion of the handle, where located on the pattern. Cut the 30° angled notch in the handle's bottom edge using a dado blade in your tablesaw along with an auxiliary wood fence on your miter gauge for support.

To finalize the feather board, countersink and slide a 5/16" washer onto the head of the machine screw, slide the threaded end through the handle, and fit a washer and 4-arm knob onto the end. Fit part B into the angled notch, and slide the bottom edge of the handle and the washer into the mitergauge slot on your tablesaw where shown bottom right. If the washer is too wide for your miter-gauge slot, you may need to grind down the outside edges for a good fit.


Continued on page 2:  Using the feather board

 

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Comments (12)
8072761952
cook6265 wrote:

How about nicely designed jig fellas. Or I can build off this to fit my needs or equipment.

4/18/2013 11:31:03 AM Report Abuse
ghamann7810 wrote:

I solved gihall3278786,s problem by cutting a slot down the the center of the feather then moving the hold down over the slot. Using a lock down t-bolt and 4-star knob in the miter-slot gives a much safer set-up. Jerry H.

12/30/2011 06:07:33 PM Report Abuse
J.R. Sloan wrote:

AlWhee's right: use expansion lock in slot: I split a hardwood spline, glued half to bottom w/tapered bolt to widen spline when locking it. Use pushstick next to the fence so cutoff will fall away from the blade. Featherboard allows operator to push workpiece past the cutting edges w/push stick. A good pushstick could be 24"x 8" of 1/4" plywood with notch at rear & applies even pressure the whole length of the workpiece. This keeps operator's fingers both above and away from the sawblade.

12/24/2011 01:44:26 PM Report Abuse
Alwhee wrote:

I use the feather board to hold work against the fence not as a kick back. I did change the bolt and use a miter slot hardware kit form Rockler item # 26993 WORKS FOR ME Alan

11/24/2011 08:55:55 AM Report Abuse
dnaderhold wrote:

Too bad this design only works on saws with a T-slot for the miter gauge.

11/23/2011 11:53:37 AM Report Abuse
sanerreg wrote:

Agree w/ bardk. The feather board belongs on the other side of the fence. (Reggie)

11/23/2011 11:39:04 AM Report Abuse
lh443 wrote:

I would use a t-slot or toilet flange bolt instead

11/23/2011 11:21:35 AM Report Abuse
gntdavis4020767 wrote:

This drawing shows a "T" slot in the table saw.

11/23/2011 09:48:24 AM Report Abuse
rayn3668258 wrote:

I have the same problem as bardk Rayn

11/23/2011 09:45:28 AM Report Abuse
bardk wrote:

Problem is, that's not the board that kicks back on me; it's the one jammed between the blade and the fence!

11/23/2011 09:34:35 AM Report Abuse
Rich J. wrote:

You could possibly install a square shoulder bolt. Also known as an elevator bolt. That will squeeze in the bottom of the handle and secure it in place.

11/23/2011 08:11:35 AM Report Abuse
gjhall3286786 wrote:

Problem is that the bolt turns as you attempt to tighten with the 4-arm knob, and the feather board does not become tight to the table. How is this rectified? Gordon

11/20/2011 05:13:44 PM Report Abuse

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