Easy-Lock Feather Board
Guarantee perfect rip cuts with this quick-to-set tablesaw helper.
- • Creating the feather board
- • Using the feather board
Creating the feather board
When ripping stock on your tablesaw, keep it firmly and safely against the fence with this handy adjustable locking feather board. Not only does it prevent wavy cuts, it guards against dangerous kickback. To build one, use the drawing at right and patterns on the next web page to cut handle (A) and feather board (B) to size and shape, noting the location of the angled notch and counterbored hole in the handle. Use a bandsaw to cut the 2 1/2"-long kerfs in the feather board and the curved portion of the handle, where located on the pattern. Cut the 30° angled notch in the handle's bottom edge using a dado blade in your tablesaw along with an auxiliary wood fence on your miter gauge for support.
To finalize the feather board, countersink and slide a 5/16" washer onto the head of the machine screw, slide the threaded end through the handle, and fit a washer and 4-arm knob onto the end. Fit part B into the angled notch, and slide the bottom edge of the handle and the washer into the mitergauge slot on your tablesaw where shown bottom right. If the washer is too wide for your miter-gauge slot, you may need to grind down the outside edges for a good fit.
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I solved gihall3278786,s problem by cutting a slot down the the center of the feather then moving the hold down over the slot. Using a lock down t-bolt and 4-star knob in the miter-slot gives a much safer set-up. Jerry H.
12/30/2011 06:07:33 PM Report AbuseAlWhee's right: use expansion lock in slot: I split a hardwood spline, glued half to bottom w/tapered bolt to widen spline when locking it. Use pushstick next to the fence so cutoff will fall away from the blade. Featherboard allows operator to push workpiece past the cutting edges w/push stick. A good pushstick could be 24"x 8" of 1/4" plywood with notch at rear & applies even pressure the whole length of the workpiece. This keeps operator's fingers both above and away from the sawblade.
12/24/2011 01:44:26 PM Report AbuseI use the feather board to hold work against the fence not as a kick back. I did change the bolt and use a miter slot hardware kit form Rockler item # 26993 WORKS FOR ME Alan
11/24/2011 08:55:55 AM Report AbuseToo bad this design only works on saws with a T-slot for the miter gauge.
11/23/2011 11:53:37 AM Report AbuseAgree w/ bardk. The feather board belongs on the other side of the fence. (Reggie)
11/23/2011 11:39:04 AM Report AbuseI would use a t-slot or toilet flange bolt instead
11/23/2011 11:21:35 AM Report AbuseThis drawing shows a "T" slot in the table saw.
11/23/2011 09:48:24 AM Report AbuseI have the same problem as bardk Rayn
11/23/2011 09:45:28 AM Report AbuseProblem is, that's not the board that kicks back on me; it's the one jammed between the blade and the fence!
11/23/2011 09:34:35 AM Report AbuseYou could possibly install a square shoulder bolt. Also known as an elevator bolt. That will squeeze in the bottom of the handle and secure it in place.
11/23/2011 08:11:35 AM Report AbuseProblem is that the bolt turns as you attempt to tighten with the 4-arm knob, and the feather board does not become tight to the table. How is this rectified? Gordon
11/20/2011 05:13:44 PM Report Abuse