Butternut
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Pages in this Story:
- • Butternut
- • Wood Identification
- • Uses in woodworking
- • Availability
- • Machining methods
- • Carving comments
- • Turning tricks
- • Shop-Tested Techniques
Machining methods
Machining methods
Butternut works more easily than black walnut with hand and power tools because the wood ranks lower in all strength properties than its cousin. That's a plus, but also a caution. Butternut's softness makes it more susceptible to nicks and dents as you work the wood. And there's more to keep in mind:
- Although black walnut dust can irritate the eyes, butternut doesn't have that tendency. But as with all woods -especially hardwoods-wear a dust mask when doing fine sanding.
- The wood's coarse grain requires care when jointing or planing to avoid tearout. Make several shallow cuts to remove wood in stead of one deep one.
- Attach a backing board to the miter fence to act as a chip breaker when crosscutting.
- Butternut, due to its softness, shouldn't burn when routed, but shallow passes eliminate any possible tearout or chipping.
- You won't have any problem gluing butternut-its coarse texture draws in adhesives, ensuring a strong bond.
- Butternut accepts all types of stains (you can even stain it to pass for black walnut) without filling first. But the rich tan wood may look best with a more natural clear finish.
- Although oil finishes prove popular on butternut carvings, you can improve the wood's natural luster by first burnishing it (rubbing the wood with the back of a spoon, gouge, or glass bottle to compact the surface of the fibers for more sheen).
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