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Make Your Own Cove Molding

Molding the Cove
Postioning the jig
Enlarge Image
Sanding cove
Enlarge Image
Place sandpaper in the cove and rub a
block of foam insulation across
it to make a sanding block that perfectly
matches the profile.

Molding the Cove

Cut the cove

Form the cove by making a series of passes over the blade. To start, set the blade height 1/16" above the table. Turn the saw on and use push blocks to slowly feed the molding blank over the blade, top photo. Raise the blade 1/16" and make another pass. Repeat this procedure until you reach the final cove depth.

Quick Tip! Lighten up and be smooth. A slow final pass removing 1/32" or less leaves a surface that requires less sanding.

Using the newly cut molding as a template, trace the profile of the cove onto the end of a piece of foam insulation and cut it to rough shape at the bandsaw or with a coping saw. Sand the block to final shape [Photo F]; then sand the cove starting at 100 grit and working up to 220 grit.

Continued on page 6:  Molding the Cove (continued)


Comments (2)
Very Part-timer wrote:

Wood, thanks for the tips. IIatl, the 3/4 inch spacer is used if it's your plan to place the cove cut down the middle of your object board. The spacers will vary as your desired cut gets closer to one (or the other) edge of the object board. I've used only one guard rail when I've wanted the cove to resemble the cut made by a router for raised panels. But that isn't necessarily the safest method to use. Two rails are safer than one.

8/12/2010 10:56:17 AM Report Abuse
llatl wrote:

I'm a newbie, so will someone explain the purpose of the spacer? Is it to offset the beginning of the cove so it won't begin right at the edge of the board? Why is a 3/4" spacer suggested?

8/12/2010 10:29:09 AM Report Abuse

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