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Make Your Own Cove Molding

Pages in this Story:
Build a Jig (continued)
Measuring the off set
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A scrap between the line and the fence
creates space between the cove
and the edge of the blank. Clamp the
first fence in place.
Setting the second fence
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Place a molding blank against the
first fence to position the second fence.
The blank must slide between the
fences without binding.

Build a Jig (continued)

After marking one inside edge of the jig onto the tablesaw top using a pencil as shown, remove the painter?s tape and clamp the fences in place [Photos D, E].


Continued on page 5:  Molding the Cove

 

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Comments (2)
8157134694
Very Part-timer wrote:

Wood, thanks for the tips. IIatl, the 3/4 inch spacer is used if it's your plan to place the cove cut down the middle of your object board. The spacers will vary as your desired cut gets closer to one (or the other) edge of the object board. I've used only one guard rail when I've wanted the cove to resemble the cut made by a router for raised panels. But that isn't necessarily the safest method to use. Two rails are safer than one.

8/12/2010 10:56:17 AM Report Abuse
llatl wrote:

I'm a newbie, so will someone explain the purpose of the spacer? Is it to offset the beginning of the cove so it won't begin right at the edge of the board? Why is a 3/4" spacer suggested?

8/12/2010 10:29:09 AM Report Abuse

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