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Make Your Own Cove Molding

Build a Jig
Exploded view of fence
Enlarge Image
Marking the spot
Enlarge Image
Mark on the tape where the stock will
first contact the front tooth of the blade
and where it will last contact the rear
Postioning the jig
Enlarge Image
Align the jig so the inside edges of the
long arms touch the marks on the tape.
Mark one long inside edge of the jig
onto the saw table.

Build a Jig

Start by setting the fences

A simple fence-setting jig [Drawing 2] determines the proper angle for the fences on the tablesaw. Build the jig as shown, ensuring that opposing sides are parallel.

Set the distance between the jig's long arms to the width of the cove and tighten the wing nuts to lock the jig in shape. Raise the tablesaw blade to the final depth of the cove (1/2" for our example), and use painter's tape to mark where the teeth enter and exit the throat plate [Photo B]. Lower the blade and use the marks to position the jig [Photo C].

Continued on page 4:  Build a Jig (continued)


Comments (2)
Very Part-timer wrote:

Wood, thanks for the tips. IIatl, the 3/4 inch spacer is used if it's your plan to place the cove cut down the middle of your object board. The spacers will vary as your desired cut gets closer to one (or the other) edge of the object board. I've used only one guard rail when I've wanted the cove to resemble the cut made by a router for raised panels. But that isn't necessarily the safest method to use. Two rails are safer than one.

8/12/2010 10:56:17 AM Report Abuse
llatl wrote:

I'm a newbie, so will someone explain the purpose of the spacer? Is it to offset the beginning of the cove so it won't begin right at the edge of the board? Why is a 3/4" spacer suggested?

8/12/2010 10:29:09 AM Report Abuse

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