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Make Your Own Cove Molding

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Blade Selection

Blade Selection

Choose a blade and prepare your stock

To minimize scoring and reduce sanding, install a 60- or 80-tooth crosscut blade in your tablesaw. You'll also need two scrapwood fences to place diagonally across the saw table, capturing the blank while you cut it, as shown above. Joint one edge of each fence square to a face.

For the 3 3/8"-wide molding used on the hall bench, prepare blanks 4 1/2" wide with parallel edges. The extra width allows for bevel-rips made after cutting the cove [Drawing 1].

Quick Tip! Better long than short. Make more molding than you need. It's easier to make extra now than to try to duplicate a setup later.

Continued on page 3: Build a Jig

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Comments (2)

Very Part-timer wrote:

Wood, thanks for the tips. IIatl, the 3/4 inch spacer is used if it's your plan to place the cove cut down the middle of your object board. The spacers will vary as your desired cut gets closer to one (or the other) edge of the object board. I've used only one guard rail when I've wanted the cove to resemble the cut made by a router for raised panels. But that isn't necessarily the safest method to use. Two rails are safer than one.

8/12/2010 10:56:17 AM Report Abuse

llatl wrote:

I'm a newbie, so will someone explain the purpose of the spacer? Is it to offset the beginning of the cove so it won't begin right at the edge of the board? Why is a 3/4" spacer suggested?

8/12/2010 10:29:09 AM Report Abuse